'How a dandy London is dressed' – this phrase from 'Eugene Onegin' by Pushkin long ago became a winged one and is often used when it comes to men's fashion and elegance. The word 'dandy' is strongly associated with the image of a stylishly dressed young man, and can also be perceived as a synonym for a dandy, a man who is especially careful about his appearance. We constantly use this concept, but at the same time, few can answer the question, who are these legendary dandies? Let's try to figure it out!
The origin of the term 'dandy'
The concept of “dandy”, as well as “dandyism”, which is less accustomed to everyday Russian speech, originated in Great Britain. This term refers to men who pay a lot of attention to their appearance, the art of social communication, various pleasant hobbies, that is, they strive to please everyone and enjoy life, but they certainly do it in a relaxed and elegant way. The first dandies in the late 18th and early 19th centuries were people from the middle class who made their way into the high society: having no hereditary titles and funds to buy jewelry and numerous outfits, they relied on a suit, flawlessly fitted to the figure, and perfect knowledge of secular manners. By the way, the definition of 'London', which became entrenched behind this word with the light hand of Pushkin, is not accidental: it was British restraint and elegance that was opposed in this case to the French love of unbridled luxury.
A true dandy – the epitome of casual chic
The origin of the word 'dandy' is not precisely known. It is believed that it comes from the French dandin – a small bell, that is, wind chime, idler. Another version refers to the Scottish jack-a-dandy, which means 'handsome'. Be that as it may, this word firmly entered the English, and then into the Russian lexicon at the beginning of the 19th century and is still used today.
The first dandy in history
Researchers agree that the first dandy in history was the Englishman George Brian Brummell (1778 – 1840). He could not boast of an aristocratic origin (his grandfather was a lackey, and his father was a secretary), but he made his way into the circles of the highest nobility thanks to the excellent education that his rich father could give him, and connections. Brummel graduated from Eton, spent several years in military service, but after meeting the Prince of Wales, the future King George IV, who became his friend and patron, he devoted himself entirely to his beloved business – the career of a dandy.
This Englishman became famous for spending several hours every day taking care of himself, knew how to dress masterly and tie a scarf in the most bizarre ways, most importantly, he always looked perfect, although at first glance it was very modest. In those days, when high society men wore embroidered camisoles, buckles with precious stones, lace shirts, hats with metallic sequins, etc., Brummell preferred a tailcoat made of simple cloth, which, however, was perfectly fitted to the figure. The founder of the new style carefully selected a few accessories for him: a neckerchief, a gold ring, a gold chain of a pocket watch and an elegant snuffbox.
The founder of the dandy style not only went down in history, but also received a monument in London
Gradually, other British fashionistas of that time began to copy this elegant image, setting a new style direction, the main features of which were restraint, grace, and ease. Lack of excessive pretentiousness, a simple high quality suit with a snow-white shirt, a bright vest and a scarf, few but expensive accessories, as well as perfect grooming of the skin, mustache and hair. It is easy to see that, in essence, such an image, with the exception of individual details and cut, has not lost its universal elegance until our days.
But the image of a true dandy was not limited to an impeccable appearance. It is known that the same Brummell set a new style of social communication, which combined ease in with witty cynicism and the ability to maintain dispassion in any situation. He often shocked the world with his statements: for example, it is believed that once, when asked how he manages to use such female attention, he replied that the secret was to 'speak with a servant as with a lady from high society, and with a lady from high society – as with a servant '. Also, Brummell could make unflattering, but apt remarks about the interlocutor's appearance. But he did all this with unchanging ease and grace.
Dandy among celebrities and literary characters
Конечно же, история не сохранила имена всех модников XIX века, но из известных людей к денди относят Джоржда Байрона, Оскара Уайльда, Шарля Бодлера, Обри Бердслея, Робера де Монтескью, Уолтера Патера, Габриеле д’Аннунцио, Михаила Кузмина, Сальвадора Дали и многих others.
The famous dandy Oscar Wilde
The followers of George Brummell received no less popularity in fiction. In addition to the already mentioned and familiar to us all Eugene Onegin, the obvious dandies are Treman from the novel of the same name by Robert Ward, Lord Henry from The Portrait of Dorian Gray by Oscar Wilde, Pelem from the novel by Pelem, or The Adventures of a Gentleman by Edward Bulwer-Lytton, Sir Percy Blakeney from 'Scarlet Primrose' by Emma Orzi and others.
Modern dandies
Fashion changes – style remains. Nowadays, no one wears a watch on a chain and does not use a snuffbox, but the basic principles of the dandy image have remained the same: the absence of excessive pretentiousness, elegance, equanimity and naturalness in disregard of generally accepted rules. Brad Pitt, Johnny Depp, David Beckham are called modern dandies.
Brad Pitt is an example of the casual elegance of the modern dandy
Dandy style basics
So, let's summarize. What makes a real dandy look? Firstly, general grooming, a beautiful haircut, a neat mustache and beard, a toned figure.
Clothing should be discreet, but made of high quality materials and fit perfectly as a glove. It can be either a classic suit or a jacket with jeans for a less strict look. You can also remember that the birthplace of the dandy image is Great Britain, and pay attention to the elements associated with the English style: tweed suits, wool coats, trench coats.
Fashion changes – the foundations of true dandy elegance remain the same
The next important point is accessories. If in the 18th century George Brummell practiced tying scarves, then modern dandies have ties and scarves in their arsenal. Not everyone knows how to tie them skillfully, but if you wish, it is quite possible to master this skill using our articles: how to tie a tie and how to tie a scarf for a man.
And of course, the basis of the dandy's image comes from the inside: ease, self-confidence, a sense of humor and some detachment of an outside observer – these are the main features of the representatives of this style.
Conclusion
It may seem that the image of the 'London dandy' has long sunk into oblivion, along with private clubs for gentlemen, horse riding training and Oscar Wilde's novels. However, despite the acceleration of the pace of life, new technologies and an abundance of changeable fashion trends, the principles of style and elegance remain the same as two hundred years ago. After all, as you know, the new is the well-forgotten old, so it may well be that you will hear the word 'dandy' more than once, moreover, pronounced in relation to you.
