Straight razors are considered retro anachronism these days. Such blades are presented as an extraordinary birthday present, but few use them all the time. Modern men prefer to use safe shaving machines that do not require careful maintenance. However, the fashion for beards and mustaches provokes the ancient craving for cold steel, which is in the blood of any man.
There is no reason to suppress this craving in yourself, but it is worthwhile to first understand a number of issues related to the rules for using razors in everyday life. Consider everything: from the philosophical 'why?' to the ordinary 'how to store?'.
The science of barbers is so subtle that some of them performed surgical procedures in Victorian Europe.
From the history of the shaving device
The question of bringing order to a man's face arose in ancient times, when wearing a bushy beard on his face became an 'indecent' in high society. The vegetation on the chin was worn exclusively by 'barbarians' with whom the civilized world (Egypt, Rome, Etruscan, Alba and others) did not want to associate themselves.
Shaving was a dangerous undertaking. It was truly self-destructive to clean myself up with a straight-bladed device. It is no coincidence that the profession of a barber has existed practically unchanged for hundreds and hundreds of years, and in Europe, barbers often also performed some medical procedures. Barbers are like white sharks, their skill is so subtle and perfect that they simply do not need to evolve.
From the point of view of the quality of shaving, “Opska” has many advantages over machines
Interestingly, arcuate shaving blades date back to the 1st millennium BC, as evidenced by archaeological finds. Almost unchanged, the wedge-shaped razor existed until the beginning of the 20th century. Everything was changed by the appearance of the Gillette T-bar, which guaranteed safety, comfort and … the degradation of the sacred process of shaving to something unbearably commonplace.
In the 20th century, 'fear' has become a subject from the world of retro. Such a device has practically ceased to be used in everyday life. Mostly it was purchased by hairdressers, since it is very convenient to straighten beards, temples and the back of the head with a blade.
The benefits of a straight razor
The uninitiated may ask a fair question: 'Why use such an artifact for shaving, if there are disposable machines and even electrical appliances?' Here are five counterarguments:
- The straight razor shaves the hairs on the chin and neck better due to the large shaving surface.
- 'Alert' prevents the problem of ingrown hairs, which are often encountered by men with thick bristles who use disposable machines.
- The straight razor does not irritate the skin, nor does it need to be repeated over the same area of the face or neck.
- This razor is better suited for shaving coarse bristles, as the sharpness and length of the blade more carefully removes coarse and densely growing hairs.
- Finally, the banal prestige and durability of such devices. If other machines have to be changed regularly, then a quality straight razor can even be inherited.
The only drawback of 'fear', which, however, can be eliminated over time, is that certain skills are required in the shaving procedure. But, as experienced PROs assure: “As soon as the hand gains firmness, this process becomes pleasant.”
Varieties of dangerous razors
Nowadays in stores there are both 'fears' with stationary blades and shawls. The latter are characterized by the fact that instead of a thick cutting knife-plate, it uses replaceable plates, including for a T-shaped machine. Shavetki are devices that do not require sterilization, created specifically for hairdressing procedures. After shaving, the blade is removed from the razor and disposed of as household waste.
Shavetka machine
There are many forms of razor blades. For the uninitiated, they are divided only into two main types – with a straight and concave (wedge-shaped) razor knife. Professionals who have stuffed their hands will cope with any device, for them only two criteria play an important role: the quality of the steel and the degree of sharpening of the blade. For beginners, for best results, barbers are advised to use a razor with a fully concave surface. This type of blade will remove hairs even in hard-to-reach places.
The thickness of the razor knife plays an important role in the variety of straight razors. Manufacturers manufacture machines with blade widths from 2/8 to 8/8 inches. Accordingly, the weight of the shaving unit varies. Professional barbers traditionally use heavy razors for their main work, and use lighter ones for delicate places. This rule can be followed by beginners, although it will be expensive to purchase two “fears” at once. You can look for something medium in weight and safely use it for different parts of the face and neck.
Basic rules for safe shaving
First of all, the shaving razor must be properly handled. Like a writing pen, it is customary to hold a straight razor with three fingers. The optimal blade angle is considered to be 30 °. It is in this direction that the hairs on the cheeks grow.
When shaving with such a device, be sure to pull the skin in the opposite direction from the movement of the blade. This should be done with your fingers, placing them at a distance of 3 centimeters from the razor knife. Before shaving a new area of your face, you need to tighten the skin again.
The secret to shaving cautiously is to pull the skin in front of the blade.
The blade needs to work smoothly, without pressure. Shaving should be done only with the hand gripping the razor blade, otherwise the risk of cuts increases. It is better to start the procedure from the temples, gradually moving towards the chin. The neck is shaved last. In order not to damage the Adam's apple, the skin in the area of the 'Adam's apple' is pulled to the side, after which it is passed with a blade in the direction of bristle growth.
Before shaving, the skin of the cheeks and neck can be lathered with a shaving brush, and the 'fear' blade itself can be immersed in warm water for a few minutes. These manipulations are designed to reduce the risk of injury to the procedure, to give it pleasant sensations. The device itself, of course, must be carefully sharpened, since cutting with a blunt blade is much easier.
Sharpening, dressing and storing your straight razor
Sharpening and straightening 'fear' is literally a magical ritual that allows your blade to fulfill its purpose 'smoothly'. Before sharpening, it is important to evaluate the shape (geometry) and inclination of the blade. To carry out this procedure effectively, open the razor must be placed on a transparent surface (a piece of glass or plastic). This will allow you to accurately estimate the angle of inclination. It is also important to examine the blade for deep chips and nicks, as such damage requires professional intervention.
A touchstone with a grain size of 800-1000 grit is suitable for sharpening the 'fear'
Sharpening
To sharpen hazardous razors, whetstones (stones) with different abrasive surfaces are used. Exclusively for sharpening, you can use a grain of 800-1000 grit. The back of the shaving razor should lie on the donkey, and the cutting edge should be in the same plane with it. After that, the razor is led along the stone with the cutting edge forward. Turn the shaving device over only over the back.
Do not test for sharpness with paper, this is a pointless bluntness of the cutting edge
It is believed that a well-sharpened device easily cuts hair that is held in weight. It is not recommended to check the sharpness of the blade by shredding pieces of paper, as this experiment will lead to a dull cutting edge. On average, you need to sharpen a straight razor no more than once every 2-3 months. Sometimes this procedure can be carried out only once every six months, it all depends on the frequency of use.
Edit
Straightening of the straight razor is carried out regularly, before each use of the machine. This procedure requires a special leather (linen) belt, as well as a paste that is applied to the surface of the belt. The key here is the correct belt, which should be equal to or slightly longer than the length of the cutting blade.
Dressing belt should be equal to or slightly longer than the blade length
When straightening the shaver, it is important to tighten the leather strip tightly. At the same time, the blade tightly pressed against the blade is pulled forward by the comb at least 50 times. When dressing, it is necessary to ensure that contact occurs with the entire surface of the cutting blade. Otherwise, the shaver could be damaged. Editing the shaver does not sharpen, but only maintains the cutting surface in the desired condition. That is why this procedure must be carried out regularly, as opposed to sharpening.
Storage
If there is a need to put a straight razor 'in a box' for a while, then before that it is necessary to lubricate it with 'soft' oil, which will prevent metal corrosion. After each use, the blade must be rinsed in warm water and wiped dry, and only then put into a dry place until the next use.
It is important to keep the shaver dry and dry and lubricate with a 'soft' oil before long periods of 'downtime'
Conclusion
Straight razors are an elite device for real men, requiring not only handling skills, but also a number of additional lotions (belt, donkey, dressing paste). However, having bought such a shaving device once, a man will be able to translate the everyday shaving procedure into a sacred ritual, available only to a narrow circle of connoisseurs of vitage perfection in every detail.
