How to choose clothes for a man (part 1)

The older we get, the more we get our hands on finding the right clothes for us. At the very beginning of the journey, when you just need to update your wardrobe, we wander aimlessly through the hypermarkets and buy just jeans, just a T-shirt or boots. How to choose clothes for a man, few people ask themselves such a question. Most often we hear this from wives or girlfriends who, more than us men, pay attention to their appearance.

One way or another, a man also wears clothes, and in order to create his own style, you need to gain experience and understand which color suits you, which shape fits better. It's great when, in the days of the global Internet, we have the opportunity to review thousands of photographs with dudes. But even armed with the image you like, you run the risk of either not finding suitable clothes in the store, or the clothes are not sewn according to your figure, or the cost of these clothes goes beyond reasonable limits. Has this happened to you?

So, let's figure out how to choose the right clothes for a man and highlight the main points that you need to pay attention to in the store.

All the information with which I would like to share will not fit in one article. Therefore, a course of 3-4 parts is planned, divided by 10 items of clothing each. Don't miss the sequel!

How to choose clothes for a man

Having assembled a wardrobe full of simple, classic and time-tested things, you will not only close the problem of an empty closet, but find yourself at the pinnacle of style. Why, you ask? The fact is that fashion trends come and go, and the classics are always relevant. By contributing to the slightly more expensive classics, you are contributing to your style, which will be 'trending' for years to come.

Let me give you an example. This season (autumn – winter 2014) it is very fashionable to wear a coat with a fur collar and leather inserts. I'm not sure that such a coat will look interesting in 2-3 years. Another thing is a classic wool coat, Trench or Chesterfield. They will be relevant in 10 years.

To adhere to the classics does not mean to renounce fashion at all. You can diversify your style with various accessories: a tie, scarf or pocket square in various colors and shades.

The concept of matching classic clothes is interesting for two reasons:

1. When you buy classic clothing, you are investing in quality that will last. It is obvious that natural materials, which are more often used in tailoring classic clothes, are more expensive than synthetics. But when we talk about 'basic wardrobe', it makes more sense to buy one or two items for several years than to spend money every year on new 'trendy' clothes.
2. You can rest assured of your stylish look, as most things will be interchangeable. Even dressing in the dark, you will not go wrong with the choice of a coat or trousers.

There is a great aphorism: – 'I am not rich enough to buy cheap things' – so Baron Rothschild used to say when he was. If you are interested in reading who it is, then you should go here

10 things you should have in your wardrobe

With all of the above in mind, it's time to create a list of the first 10 essentials that will create a versatile men's wardrobe suitable for both everyday use and any occasion. This wardrobe is suitable for both winter and summer; in any season you can choose the right clothes for yourself. Of course, I will mention clothing brands that you can look out for when going to the store, but this is not a panacea. Some brands are suitable for one man, but absolutely not for another.

All the basic classic things that we will list with you will help form a stylish image for the next 10-15 years of life. Some elements need to be changed after 5-7 years due to their wear and tear, but the general set will allow you to make a good investment in your personal image for many years.

1. Classic men's suit

I recommend purchasing a gray or blue men's classic suit, as they are the most versatile. It is customary to wear an absolutely black suit only on holidays, a very important business meeting or a funeral. In all other cases, the black suit will be out of place.

Several rules will help you to choose the right size of the suit and to understand whether it sits on you: when putting on a jacket with a T-shirt (underwear) and a shirt, try to hug yourself. If you failed to hug, then the suit is too small for you. Next, try to sit down in your pants. If the suit is cracking at the seams or the trousers are hanging and bulging in all directions – the size is not yours.

As for the fit of the suit, it is better to choose a fitted English suit than a straight American one. Remember to make sure that the jacket sleeves are 1-1.5 centimeters shorter than the shirt sleeves. Sometimes wide models with short sleeves are sewn, which are suitable only for large men with not very long arms.

Stick to a classic-style suit. Single-breasted jacket with 2 or 3 buttons, medium-width lapels and 2 slits (slots) in the back of the jacket. By the way, take a closer look at the material and which the costume is made of. It should be 100% wool of medium thickness thread (100-150 units). The suit can be worn all year round and is durable enough to be worn weekly.

Barkland Suit

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Bazioni suit

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A three-piece suit, which has a vest in addition to a jacket and trousers, is also suitable for purchase. In the top three, you can be sure to attend cultural events such as theater, for example. By the way, the jacket and trousers can be worn separately from each other. Pants can be worn with knitwear, while a jacket can be worn with jeans and a casual shirt. The only thing is, try not to get carried away, as you can wear one thing, while practically not wearing another. Takat can change its color over time, especially after dry cleaning.

You can read more about the men's classic suit at bowandtie.ru here. Also check out the infographic on how the suit should fit.

Lookbook (external image)

Brand guidelines

• Budget solution
• Average prices
• Exclusive

Bolshevichka, T.M. Lewin, Marks & Spencer, He By Mango; ZARA, but in Russia they supply things of poor quality, in Europe and America the choice is much better: Suitsupply, Reiss (must be ordered in England), Richard James, Charles Tyrwhitt (must be ordered in England, France or the USA), Massimo Dutti, Henderson.Armani , Brioni, Burberry, Canali, Gieves & Hawkes (must be ordered in England, Japan or the USA), Paul Smith (England).

2. Classic shirt

An important element of men's wardrobe is a classic shirt. For the best look, you should carefully choose the cut of the shirt to suit your physique. I recommend looking at Slim-Fit shirts with a classic mid-collar. Ideally, the shoulder seams should be the same width as your shoulders. The collar should not squeeze too hard on the neck when you fasten the top button. There should be 2 fingers between the collar and the neck, so before buying you should make sure that the fingers go through without effort. The sleeves should end near your joint where your thumb starts. Remember that the sleeve of the shirt should slightly protrude from under the sleeve of the jacket.

The best universal colors for a dress shirt are white and light blue. As for the length of the shirt, it should be sufficient so as not to crawl out from under the tucked-in trousers. It all depends on your height. I recommend choosing cuffs with the ability to wear cufflinks (there should be a cut next to the buttons – this is the hole for the cufflinks).

Selected Homme Shirt

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Marks & Spencer Shirts Set

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What can I wear with a classic shirt? It can be worn with a suit or jeans for work or a walk in the park. A white shirt is a versatile option. The only thing is, after several dozen washes, the shirt may turn yellow and lose its presentable appearance. Use special bleach or laundry detergent.

You can read more about the classic shirt at bowandtie.ru here. We've also prepared an infographic where you can see how a shirt should fit.

Lookbook (external image)

Brand guidelines

• Budget solution
• Average prices
• Exclusive

Uniqlo, T.M. Lewin, Next, Henderson.Jaeger, Reiss, Suitsupply, Jigsaw (to be ordered in England) Eton, Kilgour, Hackett, Charvet, Richard James, Turnbull & Asser.

3. Men's T-shirt

Your wardrobe should have at least 2-3 different colored T-shirts. T-shirts should be solid, neutral colors: gray, beige, dark blue, white, burgundy, dark green and so on. Pink and blue T-shirts cannot be called universal, so I do not recommend them for purchase in the first place. The T-shirt should be practically tight-fitting, without hanging pieces of fabric and an unknown XXXXXL size, like a seller from Central Asia. Sleeves should be short in summer and long in winter (if you feel cold).

Polo Ralph Lauren T-shirt Pack

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Long Sleeve T-shirt EA7

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The length of the shirt should be such that it ends at the waist, in the belt area. The collar should be regular, semicircular or V-neck, without buttons. T-shirts are perfect for jeans and a sports blazer (this is a jacket with patches at the elbows). There is no better smart casual look. You can read more about the types of T-shirts at bowandtie.ru here.

Lookbook (external image)

Brand guidelines

• Budget solution
• Average prices

Uniqlo, A SOS, Gap, MEXX, American Apparel, Next. Hanro, Zimmerli, Sunspel, Derek Rose, James Perse.

4. Skinny dark jeans

Skinny jeans, we mean not completely tight-fitting, but slightly tapered. This is important, since very tight-fitting suits only schoolchildren or adolescents, where it is customary to wear clothes as part of their subculture.

Jeans by Tommy Hilfiger

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Banana Republic Jeans

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If you are looking to buy good jeans, then be sure to get selvedge jeans. Translated from English, 'selvedge' means 'natural hem', which is formed around the edges of jeans after processing on a loom. Such jeans are not only of high quality and durable, they are recognized as reference in the fashion world. At first, such jeans will hamper movement a little, but after a while it will seem to you that they were sewn especially for you.

Never buy jeans with any embellishments, patches or half-knee holes! Leave it to the mods and informals.

It is better to choose a classic color – light blue with frayed or dark blue / indigo. Such colors will always be in fashion, and it is much easier to choose a T-shirt or shirt for such jeans than for green or burgundy ones.

Lookbook (external image)

Brand guidelines

• Budget solution
• Average prices
• Exclusive

Wrangler, Uniqlo, A SOS, Cheap Monday, Dr Denim, Carhartt, Tommy Hilfiger.Nudie Jeans, Levi’s, Edwin, Evisu, Lee.Diesel, A.P.C., Acne, J Brand, Jean Shop, Saint Laurent.

5. Jumper with V-neck

A jumper is, perhaps, the best solution than you can warm yourself in cold autumn or winter. It looks great with a shirt, especially when paired with a tie or bow tie. The jumper looks great with both jeans and trousers.

Jumper Napapijri

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Aeronautica Militare Jumper

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The best colors for a men's wardrobe are, as usual, classic: black, gray, dark blue, dark brown. By the way, for winter, it is better to choose a jumper from natural merino wool or sheep wool. It would be even better to opt for cashmere, but such a jumper will be expensive. In the summer months, a cotton jumper or a linen and wool blend will work.

Lookbook (external image)

Brand guidelines

• Budget solution
• Average prices
• Exclusive

Uniqlo, He By Mango, Selected Homme. Tommy Hilfiger, Reiss, T. M. Lewin, Suitsupply, Ted Baker. John Smedley, Johnstons of Elgin, Loro Piana, Paul Smith, Zegna.

6. Dark blue blazer

The classic man's garment that everyone should have in their closet is a dark blue blazer. You can go to a party or a business meeting in it. The classic version of the blazer is single-breasted, has 2 copper buttons and, of course, has a deep blue color. The length of the blazer should be such that the bottom hem is at the tip of your thumb when you lower your hand down.

Henderson Navy Blazer

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Henderson Blue Blazer

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As with a suit jacket, the blazer should sit on you and not restrict movement. The blazer should be fitted. The shoulders of the blazer should be exactly the same as the width of your shoulders, and the length of the sleeves should be at the same level as the beginning of the thumb, about 1-1.5 cm. Remember, the shirt should slightly protrude from under the sleeves of the blazer. A blazer, like a jacket, should be worn with the bottom button unbuttoned so that your movements are natural and do not hinder your movements.

Lookbook (external image)

Brand guidelines

• Budget solution
• Average prices
• Exclusive

He By Mango, ASOS, T.M.Lewin.Tommy Hilfiger, Reiss, Suitsupply, Ted Baker, J. Crew, Massimo Dutti, Tiger of Sweden, Oliver Spencer.A.P.C., Paul Smith, Gant, Sandro, Richard James, Boglioli, Etro.

7. Chinos trousers

For going to work on Friday or going to a meeting with friends, only chinos are better than jeans. It is especially interesting to wear them with a blazer and a T-shirt. The best, and at the same time, universal colors will be: navy blue, khaki, gray and classic beige. The material from which the chinos are made is cotton, so you will not be mistaken in choosing the composition.

Chino by Tommy Hilfiger

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Cortefiel Chinos

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If you want to dress interestingly, in smart casual style, then in addition to rank trousers, put on a shirt with buttons, choose a knitted or thin tie, jacket and complete the look with classic men's shoes. This image and style will be positively appreciated by those around you, rest assured. More details about men's pants / trousers can be found here.

Lookbook (external image)

Brand guidelines

• Budget solution
• Average prices
• Exclusive

Uniqlo, He By Mango, Gap, Banana Republic, ASOS, Next.Tommy Hilfiger, Reiss, J. Crew, Massimo Dutti, Dockers, Levi’s, Ben Sherman, Ted Baker.Hugo Boss, Incotex, Ami, Acne, Brioni, Canali, Paul Smith.

8. Classic black shoes

Shoes are the thing that you shouldn't save on. Many people evaluate a person's wealth by 3 things: a suit, shoes and a watch. So don't skimp on at least one weekend pair of black shoes. By the way, the best shoes are English shoes, so if you don't want to overpay in local stores, order a pair in the online store and arrange delivery from England.

Valor Wolf Shoes

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Fabi Shoes

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Contrary to the opinion that shoes last only a couple of seasons, I assure you that this is far from the case. If you take care of your shoes correctly, and most importantly, in a timely manner, then they will serve for several years. You can read about how to take care of your shoes at bowandtie.ru here. From classic men's shoes, I can recommend derby or oxford shoes. These shoes have passed the test of time and I am sure that the coming decades will not lose their relevance. For more details on classic men's shoes, read our last post.

Lookbook (external image)

Brand guidelines

• Average prices / Exclusive

Church's, Grenson, Cheaney, Loake, Barker, Crockett & Jones, John Lobb, Trickers.

9. Coat

A double-breasted or single-breasted coat is a great option for autumn-winter outerwear. When choosing an option for yourself, pay attention to dark blue or beige colors. Size should be matched with a T-shirt (if worn), a shirt, and a jacket. It is important that you feel comfortable in all this attire.

Coat by Marcello Gotti

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Coat Burton Menswear London

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There are different types of coats that you can read about on our blog here. As for the length of the coat, it is better to choose a length slightly above the knees, since a very short coat does not always fit a suit. The jacket can be peeking out from under the coat.

Lookbook (external image)

Brand guidelines

• Budget solution
• Average prices
• Exclusive

HE By Mango, Burton, Topman, ASOS, Austin Reed, Selected Homme.French Connection, Reiss, Farah Vintage, Ted Baker, Barbour, Ben Sherman.Burberry, Belstaff, Paul Smith, Private White V.C., Lanvin.

10. Underwear

Perhaps there is nothing closer from clothes than underwear, so it should be of good quality and comfortable. It is not so important whether you prefer boxers or ordinary swimming trunks, how important is the material from which they are made. Choose only the finest natural materials, usually cotton. Size it accurately. The underwear should not be too tight, otherwise it will chafe. It, too, should not hang, otherwise you will look like a guy in the family.

DIM panties set

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Boxers Boss Hugo Boss

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By the way, underwear tends to wear out quickly due to frequent washings. Therefore, once every six months – a year, try to update the set of linen. Rest assured, your girlfriend / wife will be grateful.

Brand guidelines

• Average prices
• Exclusive

Atlantic, Uniqlo, A SOS, American Apparel, Next. Hanro, Calvin Klein, Oiler & Boiler, Sunspel, Derek Rose, Bjorn Borg, HOM.

Basic men's wardrobe – video

As a conclusion to the first part

Let's sum up the first part of the article on how to choose clothes for a man. I tried to collect the 10 most important and necessary items of men's wardrobe, which will be relevant, if not always, then for a very long time. Of course, these items cannot be called essential items, but if you start to collect your wardrobe and want only good and solid things there, you should pay attention to the list above.

In the second part of the article, we will analyze the following 10 items of men's wardrobe that every stylish gentleman should have. Until next time in the next article!