Shellac: what is it and the secrets of application

Nail care is one of the daily concerns of a modern woman. Conventional decorative coatings, such as simple varnishes, quickly lose their aesthetic appearance and must be washed off and reapplied frequently. But means like gel polish and shellac allow you to make a long-lasting manicure and forget about the need for nail care for a long time. The magazine's journalists talked to nail art experts and learned all about shellac – what it is, how it differs from varnish and gel, how to apply, what are the advantages and disadvantages.

Shellac – what is it, how it differs from other decorative cosmetics

Shellac is a unique nail care product that was invented and patented by CND (Creative Nail Design) in 2010. This drug is a kind of hybrid or intermediate between classic varnish and gel varnish. At that time, Shellac made a splash in the world of the nail industry and immediately gained great popularity. The drug has become an excellent alternative to classic varnishes, which stayed on the nails for two to three days.

There is an opinion that the composition of preparations marked Shellac contains an organic polymer of the same name, used in the production of industrial varnishes, insulating materials, in the furniture and footwear industries. However, this is not the case, if you study the packaging of such a varnish and see the composition, you will not find a mention of shellac resin in it.

Comparing shellac and ordinary classic nail polish is not appropriate, since these are completely different cosmetics. The varnish hardens in the air, and a product called Shellac dries when exposed to UV rays.

But between shellac and gel polish there are common features, since nail art using these tools will require a drying lamp. There are fundamental differences between these drugs:

1. Gel polish is more viscous than Shellac. Therefore, the first tool can be used to correct the shape and length of the marigold (including for building). And the second tool is just a very durable decorative coating.

2. Shellac can be removed using a special liquid. And gel polish is removed only mechanically (filing).

3. Shellac is not common, but still needs to be completely washed off and re-done. And the gel can be applied rarely and worn on nails for any time, carrying out periodic correction of the coating.

4. To date, the original shellac is a product of the already mentioned SND brand. However, this term has become a household name, it is also found in the names of products from other companies. For example, on sale you can find cosmetics for nail art Shellac Bluesky, AllShellac Premier.

Is it worth applying shellac – the advantages of the product as a decorative coating for nail art

Experts note that a tool like shellac has many advantages over other manicure preparations:

1. Full color saturation. If varnish is applied, its shade fully corresponds to that stated on the label.

2. A very large assortment of shellac colors and shades, a varied palette of colors, on which high-class designers are working. If you plan on using this product, you have over 250 options to choose from. Moreover, varnishes can be applied solo, mixed, getting unusual secondary and tertiary colors.

3. Soft and comfortable texture. Shellac is very easy to apply, it does not spread, it lies flat on the surface. It does not weigh down the nail plates, it is comfortable to 'wear'. Due to the fact that shellac contains a large amount of oligomers, it does not evaporate and does not dry out, even if the process of making nail art is delayed. Shellac hardens only during polymerization with the participation of ultraviolet radiation, forming a hard and durable film on the surface.

4. Versatility of application. Shellac can be applied to create a one-color manicure. Or use this tool to make original drawings of any degree of complexity, to bring to life unique designs.

5. Increased durability of the coating. Shellac can be applied once every two or even three weeks, as it is resistant to chemical and mechanical stress. You can safely and without restrictions do housework, take baths, visit the beach and swim in water bodies. The coating will not fade in the sun, peel off, rub off or chip, it will remain the same as immediately after application. Manicure and pedicure always have a neat, well-groomed look, and a woman does not need frequent nail care. However, experts note that shellac can stay on nails for less time than it should. This may be due to the unsatisfactory condition of the nail plates, lame technique and insufficient skill in performing nail art, poor quality of the material that can be applied in salons with a dubious reputation, and frequent contact of hands with chemicals.

6. If you apply shellac in a thin layer, as recommended by the manufacturer, then you can use the tool quite economically. The volume of one standard bottle of varnish from the SND company is 7.3 milliliters. Nail art masters assure that this amount of funds will be enough for 15, or even 20 procedures. That is, for 5-6 months, which, even with a fairly high cost of cosmetics, will save money.

7. Lack of persistent unpleasant odor while applying shellac, which makes the procedure comfortable.

8. The time during which you have to apply the decorative coating is only 30-40 minutes. That makes it possible to make durable nail art in a salon or in a nail bar, even during your lunch break at work. At the same time, immediately after the procedure, you have the opportunity to start your daily business, without fear of touching and smearing the not completely dried decorative coating, as was the case with traditional varnishes.

9. If shellac is applied, it will not interfere with the natural growth of the nail plate. The drug has a safe composition, no formaldehyde, toluene, dibutyl phthalate and other harmful components. Thanks to this, the manufacturer was able to declare the shellac composition as '7 Free'. The drug does not cause allergic reactions or other complications. Some experts claim that shellac protects tissues from the negative effects of external factors, which helps to improve their condition and structure.

10. You can apply shellac without age or health restrictions. Even high school girls use this tool to give their nails a neat and well-groomed look. There are no restrictions on the use of shellac for expectant mothers and breastfeeding women. Shellac allows women of any profession and status to always look well-groomed, stylish, with a minimum of effort and spending a minimum of time.

11. You can apply shellac regularly. As soon as the outdated coating has been removed, you can do a new manicure (but experts still recommend taking a short break of several days or a week).

12. You can apply and wash off shellac not only in a beauty salon, but also at home. This allows you to save on hand care.

If you previously used acrylic extensions or modeling gel, then note another advantage of shellac – the price of this decorative cosmetics for nail art. Against the background of the price of other persistent nail art preparations, applying shellac is cheaper.

To apply shellac or not – the disadvantages of a persistent nail art product

Before you decide to buy shellac and use it for manicure, it will not be superfluous to find out about the disadvantages of this drug. There are not many of them, but they are still there:

1. Shellac can be applied only with a special LED lamp. Without it, the product simply will not solidify. Buying a lamp is an additional cash outlay. You will also need other accessories, which we will also discuss in this article.

2. Doing a manicure at home requires certain skills and dexterity. Therefore, before applying persistent shellac, you need to practice doing nail art using ordinary decorative varnishes.

3. The base, which must be applied to the nails before applying the decorative coating, is acidic. This tool slightly lifts the scales of the nail plate, providing the desired level of adhesion. If the nails are prone to dryness, the varnish coating may begin to crack.

4. To remove the decorative coating, you will need an acetone-containing agent, which is not very good for nail plates. Shellac itself is safe, but the drug with which it is removed from the nails raises doubts.

5. In the process of applying manicure, the preparation, although slowly, thickens under the influence of light. Many women complain that they managed to use only half of the bottle of varnish, and the second half is no longer possible to apply, since it is not flexible enough.

6. The cost of shellacs is not as low as we would like. In a specialized store, the average price of one bottle of gel is more than 500-1000 rubles. If you carry out the procedure in a beauty salon or with a private manicurist, it will also cost a lot. On sale you can find funds with a relatively low cost – about 200 rubles. But experts do not recommend applying shellacs from unknown manufacturers, as you can get a poor-quality manicure, as well as harm the nail plates.

7. Due to the high popularity and relatively high cost of branded shellac, it is often counterfeited. Such drugs manufactured in China and purchased through the Aliexpress service (or elsewhere) can cause a chemical burn. If you buy cosmetics for performing manicure at home on your own, you can order products on the official website or from official representatives, without fear of counterfeiting. There is nothing complicated here, it's just the price. And if a manicure with shellac is done in a beauty salon? You cannot be sure that the staff of the institution are buying really high-quality original preparations that can be applied without fear.

As you can see, shellac has drawbacks, although they are mostly minor. But the question arises, why do so many women around the world choose this particular tool in order to get a long-lasting and beautiful manicure? Especially in a situation where there is a safer and more profitable alternative – coating with gel polish or acrylic. Undoubtedly, shellac is better than traditional nail polish. But otherwise it is inferior in all positions to gel polish, and its widespread use is justified by several reasons. It is convenient and profitable for salons to use shellac. Manicure takes a little time, only half an hour instead of two or two and a half hours spent on applying gel polish. Therefore, masters can receive more clients during the day. Also, shellac is less resistant than an alternative preparation, it adheres well only to perfectly straight and healthy nails. In addition, the marigolds grow back, and the uncoated surface at the base is exposed. Accordingly, many clients are often forced to come for a correction, as well as removing a manicure and performing a new one. All this brings good income to beauty salons, so they work mainly with shellac, recommending it to customers as their preferred option.

When shellac should not be applied – contraindications

Numerous studies have shown that applying shellac is not harmful to health. There are no contraindications to its use. Except in cases of diseases of the nail plates. For example, polish should not be used if you have untreated nail fungus.

It is also not recommended to use shellac as a decorative coating if you have thin, brittle, weakened, flat, springboard-like, broken, with bumps and irregularities of the marigold. In this case, quick surface chips cannot be avoided, the manicure will last 7-10 days. This is due to the fact that shellac has a too liquid base, which is not able to perfectly align all the relief defects and create a perfectly flat surface for applying decorative layers. To make a high-quality manicure, it is recommended to replace shellac with a viscous gel polish.

What is needed in order to apply shellac at home

To be able to apply funds on your own, without visiting a beauty salon or a private master, you need to purchase the following set:

1. Everything you need for a hygienic or decorative manicure. These are scissors, nail files, accessories for removing cuticles, etc.

2. Varnishes marked 'Shellac' that you intend to apply. The required colors can be selected in the catalog of any online store of goods for manicure. But it's still better to 'try on' the shades of varnishes live. Stationary stores have special palettes that allow you to apply an artificial nail, covered with a certain color of varnish, to your fingers and see if this option suits you.

3. Special LED lamp (fluorescent, LED, CCFL ultraviolet lamp). No matter how much it costs, the purchase is necessary, without it, it is useless to apply Shellac. Cheaper positions can be found on the websites of major online stores. It is advisable to buy a device that emits a wide range of UV waves – from 270 to 400 nm. This will allow you to work with any shellac and gel polish from different manufacturers.

4. Means for removing shellac from nails, as well as several files with varying degrees of abrasiveness, a set of orange sticks.

5. Lint-free wipes and degreaser for the final layer.

6. Various additional tools for the designs that you plan to create. It can be rhinestones, glitters, powder.

7. Since the manicure needs to be applied in good lighting, you need to take care of purchasing not only an LED lamp, but also a tabletop daylight lamp.

To apply shellac, you need to choose the right lamp

To be sure that the drying lamp is suitable for manicure, you need to make sure that the wavelengths are sufficient to start the decorative coating polymerization process. Shellac packaging must have a special label indicating which type of lamp to use:

1. UV / LED – this mark indicates that this is a versatile varnish that can be applied with any curing lamp.

2. UV – A short or medium range UV lamp should be used. To apply Shellac, devices with wavelengths from 280 to 370 nm, fluorescent or CCFL type are suitable.

3. LED – this mark indicates that you need to use an LED lamp with a wavelength of 380-400 nm. Other types of apparatus can be used, but in this case, the shellac polymerization will take much longer.

The sequence of nail art – how to apply shellac

The procedure for performing a manicure does not cause any particular difficulties, over time you will learn how to apply shellac quickly and efficiently:

1. The first stage is preparatory. The nails are cleaned, their shape and length are corrected, the cuticle is removed. It is important to pay attention to thoroughly removing the cuticle, since if a persistent varnish gets on it, the coating will most likely peel off and crack very quickly. In order to prevent this, you can use the Cuticle Eraser from CND or another similar preparation. A more economical way to remove cuticles is with a trim manicure. A buff is used to polish the nail plate, which is performed several times a month. Then the marigolds need to be cleaned of dust and treated with an antiseptic. To degrease the surface, special compounds are also used; to remove excess moisture, dehydrate can be used.

2. The nails are covered with a special manicure primer. The use of a primer helps to protect the nails, improve the adhesion (adhesion) of the coating to the surface, and increase the durability of the manicure.

3. Base application, preferably on a rubber base. Nail art experts, who believe that in manicure you need to use the products of the same company, which are ideally combined with each other, recommend using the Base Coat from CND. But you can replace this drug with another similar remedy, for example, the base from Color Couture Entity One, which has healing properties, strengthens tissues, and additionally protects marigolds from the negative effects of pigments. The preparation layer should be as thin as possible. Drying under the lamp and fixing under the lamp are required at this stage.

4. Now you need to apply the first layer of decorative coating. This layer must be dried, it must also be as thin as possible. The polymerization (solidification) of shellac begins using a drying lamp. Many women are interested in how long to keep their hands under the lamp. The drying time of the product depends on several factors – on the type of lamp, the wavelength of the emitted waves, the chemical composition of the varnish, the thickness of the coating layer. The polymerization rate can even depend on the distance between the light source and the nails. Also, an important role in the drying process of the drug is its color. For example, Shellacs with a high degree of pigmentation take longer to cure than those with less intense color. This means that black or red shellac will harden longer than, for example, white or beige. The average drying time of the coating is 30-60 seconds under an LED lamp and 2-8 minutes under the light of a CCFL lamp.

5. It is necessary to consistently apply the required number of shellac layers, each of which is dried under a lamp. Depending on the type of preparation, density and intensity of pigmentation, it may be necessary to perform from two to five layers. After the last layer is made, a special preparation must be applied to the nails. This agent has degreasing properties, it removes the sticky dispersion layer that forms on the surface of the film. Experts recommend using a cleanser for this purpose. But, as a last resort, 99% isopropyl alcohol will do.

6. Apply fixer, which is the top coat for shellac. In this case, this is a layer that can be thicker than the main ones. To create the finish, you can use a product from the CND line of cosmetics – Top Coat.

7. Experts advise avoiding lengthy water procedures in the first few days after performing a manicure with shellac. This recommendation is based on the fact that the final solidification of shellac continues for another two days after the nail art procedure.

8. After use, the shellac bottle must be tightly closed and stored exclusively in a dark place. The fact is that sunlight also contains ultraviolet waves. Of course, the polymerization of the product under the influence of ordinary light takes a very long time, but it can curl up, change its texture and properties.

How to apply shellac – popular manicure methods

With this tool for decorating nails, you can embody any ideas, use different manicure techniques:

1. French style nail art. Light 'smiles' on the tips of the nails can be made with varnish in white, milky, pale pink or cream shades. Products of the CND brand are ideal for this technique, for example, Cream Puff or Stidio White. Artistic painting, broths, rhinestones can be used as additional decorative elements.

2. Stamping or stamping. In this case, an elegant pattern can be applied under the top layer using a special varnish. For stamping, you will need not only shellac, but also metal plates that transfer the pattern to the surface of the marigold.

3. Lunar nail art. A kind of jacket, in the technique of which the crescent moon is located not at the tip of the nail, but closer to the cuticle. And in most cases, not light varnish is used, but cosmetics with increased pigmentation, that is, colored.

4. Ombre technique or gradient shellac application. In this case, a varnish of one color is applied at the base of the marigold, a varnish of a second color is applied at the tip of the plate. In the middle, you can use a third shade. And then with a very thin brush, the shades are mixed, creating the effect of a smooth flow of one color into another. Multiple layers can be added to enhance the ombre effect.

5. Water-based manicure technique combined with shellac. To make such fashionable water patterns, you need to apply the first layer of shellac, dry it, and then dip your nail in an aqueous solution of paints of the selected colors. Fingers need to be pretreated with cream or the skin should be isolated with tape. As a result, colorful abstract patterns will appear on the surface of the marigolds. After that, you can apply a finishing coat of the clear product.

These are far from all the techniques that can be implemented with or based on shellac. Having mastered the basics of using this tool, you can start experimenting with your own options for nail decor.

How to remove shellac from the surface of the nail plates

Shellac is removed from the nails using a special solution based on acetone. The employees of the company who developed the formula of the drug did not want to scare away customers and manicurists, so the fact that Shellac remover contains acetone, which is relatively harmful to nails, is not advertised.

The procedure for removing permanent varnish is simple:

1. Wash hands thoroughly.

2. Prepare ten glue-based sponges, which are designed specifically for the gentle removal of shellac. Instead of sponges, you can use cotton pads (cotton wool) and foil. Or cotton pads and special nail pads for extra fixation.

3. Saturate the discs with a special dissolving agent. It is optimal to use the products of the CND company, which are called Product Remover or other products of similar properties.

4. Wrap marigolds and fingertips with sponges so that the part soaked in solvent contacts only the nail plate and is fixed with a sticky surface. Leave the sponges on your nails for 10 minutes.

5. After removing the dressings soaked in solvent, you need to clean the nails of large residues of varnish with an orange stick, which is not so hard as to harm the tissues of the hands.

6. If there are slight shellac residues on the nails, remove them by wiping the contaminated surfaces with a cotton pad soaked in solvent.

7. Wash your hands, treat cuticles, nails with a caring oil. After a while, you need to apply a moisturizing or regenerating cream to your hands.

8. What to do if there is no special solution for removing permanent decorative coating at hand? Experts advise you to contact a beauty salon, where you can correct your manicure or completely rinse off the shellac. Another option is to use standard acetone-containing solvents. You just need to take into account that it will take a long time to dissolve the dense film of the polymer coating.

9. Can shellac be removed with a hardware method? Manicurists say that this is possible, but it is not advisable to carry out such a procedure. Due to the peculiarities of the composition, the cutter gets stuck in the material, the effectiveness of the procedure is low. In addition, using mechanical methods of removing the coating is dangerous for the nails. There is a high probability of sawing the nail plate, since the coating layer is not thick enough and it is fragile in itself. Hardware removal of manicure is more suitable if a denser gel polish was used. However, you can use manual mechanical action and files with an abrasive coating. At least in order to remove the bulk of the polymer material from the nails.

Manicurists are strongly advised to refrain from such a method of removing manicure as an acetone bath. In the case of using this particular method, you can damage not only your nails, but also the skin of your fingers.

Is it possible to 'repair' Shellac marigolds

If you used shellac, and for some reason, the coating on one of the nails quickly cracked or received other damage, then it will be impossible to correct the situation. In the case of using acrylic or gel polish, you can quickly correct the manicure. And if the manicure was performed using Shellac, you will have to redo the nail again, or even all ten.

How to extend the shelf life of a shellac manicure

Asking such a question as extending the period of wearing shellac on the nails, you need to remember about the growth rate of the nail plates. For the average person, fingernails grow at a rate of 1-2 millimeters per week. On the legs, the nails grow more slowly, grow back by about 0.25-1 millimeters in seven days. It is clear that within a week after the last treatment of the marigolds and the application of a decorative coating, a new, unpainted area near the cuticle will appear. It will not look aesthetically pleasing. Therefore, there is no particular need for shellac to last longer than several weeks in a row. However, there will be little joy in the fact that the coating will crack or peel off before the natural necessity comes and it is time to replace it. Therefore, you can take preventive measures in order to prevent damage to the integrity of the dense decorative film on the nails:

1. Avoid contact of nails with any type of aggressive solvents.

2. Avoid changes in external temperatures (thermal effects of the hot-cold type).

3. Do not test nails and decorative coatings for durability. That is, do not scratch or peel off solids from surfaces unless absolutely necessary.

4. Wash dishes, floors, wash and perform all other house cleaning activities with rubber gloves, periodically cleaning and airing hands. The same applies to gardening or other household work.

In principle, no special manicure care, which is performed using shellac, is required. Just protect the nails and skin of the hands in standard ways, this will be enough.

Analogues of the original shellac from CND

The standard of quality and efficiency is the products of the CND company, which appeared on the market first, almost 10 years ago. But since 2010, many other large brands have also begun developing in this direction, thanks to which other manufacturers also produce products similar to the original shellac. For example, our consultants recommend the products of such companies for use:

1. In'Garden – shellac of this brand has all the advantages of CND products. Nail art experts note that the products of this manufacturer thicken more slowly than usual.

2. Entity One – Shellac from this company has been developed over the years. Thanks to this, the product is of high quality and can compete with the original. The advantage of shellac from this company is that the material tends to smoothly distribute over the surface of the nail and align itself, like a self-leveling floor, hiding and leveling all the irregularities of the nail plate. An additional plus of the product is the optimal shape of the brush, which makes the process of applying varnish a pleasure. Of the minuses, it can be noted – the short shelf life of an open drug. Even with increased accuracy in handling, shellac from this company is rarely stored for more than a few months. But on the nails it keeps well – an indicator of durability for three weeks is not uncommon. There are not as many color options as CND – just over a hundred options.

The products of these companies can be easily found among the assortment of large specialized stores. They are more affordable than the products of the CND brand, have the required level of quality, and allow you to perform durable and highly aesthetic nail art that does not harm your nails.

How to understand that using shellac is harmful to marigolds

Shellac, like any other manicure product, can harm your nails. Especially if it is used regularly and without long breaks. Or in the case when the body as a whole is weakened, and this is reflected in the condition of the nail plates.

There are several signs that clearly indicate that the use of shellac needs to be suspended for a while, taking time to restore the health of the nails:

1. The surface of the nails has faded, the normal shade of the tissues has changed. They can become yellowish or grayish in color.

2. Visible defects appeared on the nails – roughness, tubercles, stripes, spots, chips.

3. The nails began to flake, their structure was broken.

4. Negative changes in the skin began around the nail plates. Thickening of the cuticle occurs, burrs have appeared, the skin has become rough and unpleasant to the touch.

5. There was pain in the fingertips.

6. Fungal diseases have developed, which especially often affect the toenails.

Such negative changes can occur for several reasons. For example, if the shellac is of poor quality (a fake containing toxic substances, an expired product), if the master who does the manicure does not follow the rules for disinfecting accessories and accessories for nail art. If you notice these changes after using shellac, wash off the product from your nails and seek the advice of a specialist, preferably a mycologist or podiatrist, therapist.

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