How to choose men's classic shoes

Footwear

Good men's dress shoes are a high priority on a man's wardrobe list. Even if you rarely wear a formal suit, you should still have at least one pair of classic formal shoes. Any man needs to know what types of shoes there are and how you can choose the right pair for yourself. Knowing the 8 basic styles of men's shoes that we will look at today, you will easily navigate the store and be able to choose a pair of shoes with ease. Good shoes or boots are expensive, but with proper care, the lifespan can be extended to several years.

We will tell you how to choose men's classic shoes, as well as give some advice on what it is customary to wear this or that pair. Each style has several varieties, so we will consider only the prominent representatives of the group.

Details of classic shoes

Before you start talking about a particular style, you need to describe the main components that make up the shoe. Starting from the toe and ending with the heel, all shoes consist of: a toe (actually the front of the shoe), a vamp (covers the upper surface of the leg), ankle boots (the outer part of the upper of the shoe, on which the laces are located), a heel (the outer part of the upper of the shoe that covers the heel feet) and the sole itself below.

Shoe details

In addition, there are various overlays and stripes on these basic elements, so we will describe them in each style separately.

Oxfords (The Oxford Shoes)

A classic shoe style featuring closed lacing. The vamp is located on top of the boots, so there are no seams as such around. The effect is as if the lacing is sunk into the boot. Shoes for a business look, not for an informal one.

Men's Brown Oxfords – Brogues Classic Men's Oxfords

Men's oxfords are quite elegant and are usually made of black or dark brown leather. The structure is mostly smooth, but today you can find products made of textured leather and suede. Very often shoes are decorated with perforated leather overlays, framing the toe, vamp, or ankle boots. The backdrop is also decorated, but less often.

A bit of history. Before the advent of men's oxfords, back in the 18th century, balmorals were very popular in the old world (Britain). After some time, as a result of evolution, Oxford ankle boots appeared, which were very popular at the world-famous University of Oxford at the beginning of the 19th century. Differing in style, they distinguish only in the homeland of boots, in the United States, Oxfords and Balmorals are considered one type of footwear.

What to wear with men's oxfords? Usually they are worn under pants or trousers, not under jeans. The most official option for Oxfords is black (possibly patent leather) without decorations and perforated overlays. They go well with a tuxedo, a tailcoat, even a classic formal suit.

Derby (The Derby Shoes)

Derby shoes are very similar to Oxfords, but the main difference from the latter is open lacing, i.e. ankle boots sewn on top of the vamp. Therefore, when the boot is unlaced, the sides easily diverge to the sides. Derby style shoes are made from both smooth and textured leather in different colors. Available in suede and perforated leather models.

Brown Men's Derby Black Mens Derby

Derby shoes used to be called 'bluchers' in old England after Marshal Blucher. In the 1850s, bluchers were worn as sports or hunting shoes, but closer to the 20th century, bluchers began to be worn in the city as casual shoes.

What to wear with a derby? Derby style is less formal than oxfords, so the derby can be worn with jeans, shorts or sweatpants. These shoes are suitable for any style of clothing.

Monkey (The Monk Strap)

The most obvious difference between a monk shoe is the lack of laces. Translated from English 'Monk Strap' – monastic straps. They were probably named so because of their resemblance to the shoes of monks. Made from leather of different colors and textures. There are suede products. Monks are versatile shoes. As a rule, boot fasteners are made in silver, copper or brass color, so they are often combined with watches, cufflinks or belt buckle.

Classic Brown Monks Classic Black Monks

What to wear with monks? Recommended to be worn with tapered trousers, slightly short so that you can see the lower leg when walking. Jeans are also a great option. You can wear a blazer or cardigan on top.

Loafers (The Loafer)

Lofer style shoes are preferred by people who, due to the specifics of their business or work, have to travel and walk a lot. Loafers are extremely comfortable. They are without laces and are a bit like moccasins, but they differ in the type of sole and heel height. A striking feature of ordinary loafers is the presence of tassels on the ankle boots. No functionality, just a stylish element.

Classic Tassel Loafers Classic Tassel Loafers

The history of loafers began around the 1930s, when a 20 year old shoemaker made a shoe called Aurland moccasins. Products are actively sold to the old world (Europe), where tourists from the United States liked. Some time later, a family from America began to produce and sell shoes under the new name 'Loafers'. At the dawn of the 50s, shoes ceased to be everyday and became more elegant, undergoing some design decisions. For example, in the mid-60s, the famous Italian designer Gucci added an iron element in the shape of a snaffle to loafers (this is a part of a horse's bridle in the form of chains fastened to each other by a chain or two fastened iron mouthpieces). After that, loafers became very popular on Wall Street (USA) and for a long time were considered the standard dress code for a business person.

How to wear loafers correctly? These shoes are used in everyday life. This shoe is suitable for going to work and walking in the park. They go well with jeans or skinny pants, as well as a business-casual suit.

The Brogues

Brogues are shoes with holes and a distinctive feature in the form of a toe patch in various configurations. They can be laced in or out and are often confused with oxfords and derbies.

Brown leather brogues Brogues in navy suede leather

The history of brogue shoes began in Ireland around the 17th century. Local farmers wore shoes with holes to drain water and dry quickly, as the ground was swampy. However, at the beginning of the 20th century, brogues came to the taste of the aristocratic circle of people and was already actively used on golf courses. Once an aristocrat and fashionist Prince of Wales Edward ordered a cut-off sock in the shape of the letter 'W' from a brogue, after which the tradition has been preserved to this day.

What to wear brogues with? Brogue style shoes are informal, so they will not go with a formal suit. However, it goes well with corduroy trousers, a tweed jacket and any casual outfit.

Dress Boots

Boots are shoes with a fully enclosed ankle. Very similar to Oxfords. Classic boots are made of smooth leather and tied with laces. Perfect for rainy, spring and autumn weather. Some models are made with inner fur so that boots can be worn in winter.

Classic boots in black leather Brogue style Classic boots in brown leather

Rules for wearing boots. Depending on the model, the boots can match trousers or jeans. Even color and smooth leather with or without perforation gives a more formal look. Informal models include products made of textured leather, brown or other colors and various variations of fasteners.

Chelsea (The Chelsea Boot)

These are high ankle boots with a rounded toe, thin sole and low heel. A distinctive feature of Chelsea is the presence of elastic bands on the sides, going from the very bottom to the top of the boot. That is why Chelsea is easy to put on and take off. there are no laces or fasteners. The bangs boots have a minimalist look. There are no perforations or other decorative elements on them. Usually made from black leather, less often brown leather of dark and light colors.

Chelsea boots in black leather Chelsea boots in black leather Brogue style

The history of Chelsea dates back to the Victorian era in England, when a shoemaker named J. Sparkes-Hall made a pair for Queen Victoria. However, they did not gain much acceptance until 1960, when they became a symbol of pop culture and the British student movement during the Beatles era. By the way, Chelsea is widely used for horse riding due to its high comfort.

What to wear chelsea with? Chelsea style shoes are great for a variety of clothing styles. Classic black Chelsea fit a business suit. At the same time, products made of suede or brown leather are perfect for a business casual or casual dress code, combined with a cardigan, pullover, shirt or turtleneck.

The Chukka Boot

Chukka boots have their origins in polo players and originate from a time period in polo called the Chukker or Chukka. Initially, the chukka boots had an uncovered ankle, but a little later they came up with the idea of ​​slightly raising the boots so that it was comfortable to walk in them after the game. A distinctive feature of these boots is the presence of two or three openings for laces, as well as a slightly rounded toe. Ankle boots are sewn on top like a derby, so Chukki is comfortable to wear and not difficult to lace up. As a rule, classic Chukki are made of soft calfskin, but sometimes models are made of suede.

Chakka boots in black leather Chakka boots in dark gray leather

What to wear with 'Chukka' boots? In fact, these boots retain a more casual look, but some boots can also be worn under a suit.

Types of classic men's shoes – video

Finally

So, now you know 8 styles and imagine how to choose men's classic shoes. In my opinion, from the whole variety of styles, you can always choose for yourself 2 pairs of excellent boots that are suitable for a business suit and for a Friday trip to the club. The main thing is not to get hung up on the price. As I said, good shoes are expensive, but if you want to emphasize your style, it is still worth buying at least a pair of excellent English boots or shoes. At least as a gift from family or friends. By the way, do not forget to read before buying how to choose shoes for a suit.

Shoes say a lot about a person, and good men's classic shoes will say more 🙂

All the best and successful experiments!

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