We have already written about classic types of shoes, but men's oxfords (they are also Oxford shoes or Oxford Shoes) are worthy of special attention. Many people consider this style a mandatory attribute of exclusively formal images. But it is not so.
Oxford Shoes come in several varieties as well as many colors. They can be appropriate not only for Black Tie or White Tie events, but also in business, casual, street and even sports sets. Don't believe me? The main thing is to clearly understand which type is relevant for a specific time and place. All the necessary information has already been collected by us in this article. You just have to open it and run a quick glance. It does not take a lot of time!
Foggy history or how did men's oxfords come about?
A bit of history. Since about the 17th century, tight-fitting boots with button closures have been in fashion for men. This style had a heel and reminded Irish balmorals. It was actively used both outdoors and indoors. But such shoes were not very comfortable, so over time the bootleg was shortened to the height of more comfortable boots.
With their appearance, Balmorala shoes already resemble the usual Oxford shoes
It was the students of the University of Oxford who put their … No, not their hands, but their feet to the popularization of such shoes. And this was at the beginning of the 19th century, although historians for some reason disagree in terms of dates. But back to our boots. This style, although it became the prototype of modern Oxfords, however, had a number of striking differences. These include side cuts. Later they were equipped with practical laces, which later migrated to the front of the boots. The evolution of the style has also touched the heel. It has become much lower. However, the height of the bootleg also decreased, until these two components acquired the look familiar to us. The main advantage of such shoes is the greatest comfort in wearing, in comparison with boots.
In 1846, the inventor of the legendary Chelsea boot named Joseph Sparks-Hall wrote in The New Monthly Magazine: 'Oxonian shoes are the best for walking. It has three or four pairs of lace holes at the front. ' According to some sources, it was then that the modern name 'Oxfords' was fixed, which we still use today.
Everything is clear with the name. Only the place where the evolution of the style from boots through boots to shoes took place remains foggy – on campus or off campus? Discussions on this topic continue today. But, I think that their result will have little effect on the choice of men to wear modern Oxfords. Is not it?
What makes Oxfords so different from other men's shoes?
Did the question make you wonder? And the answer is very prosaic – in the lacing system. In classic Oxfords, it is closed, in contrast to the same derby. Although the latter are nothing more than a variety of Oxford Shoes, their details are sewn in differently. For clarity, I will give the following photos: on the left – classic oxfords, on the right – derby.
Classic Oxford ankle boots are sewn under the front of the shoes, called the vamp 
Derbies have open lacing, and their boots are sewn over the vamp
The photographs show that in the classic, both sides of the lacing system (the so-called ankle boots) are sewn under the vamp (the front of the shoes). And the derby – on top of it.
Don't forget the brogues. After all, their appearance is also similar to oxfords or derbies. The only detail that distinguishes brogues from similar styles of men's shoes is the presence of perforation.
Brogues are distinguished by the presence of perforated elements, although their cut may be identical to Oxfords or Derby shoes
That's all the difference! Although it is precisely the features of the cut and the presence or absence of decor that divide Oxfords into models that are appropriate for formal, semi-formal, business, casual and sports events.
Men's oxfords and their varieties
In the West, Oxford Shoes are usually divided into the following types:
Seamless
Seamless, or seamless oxfords – the most expensive and elegant type of men's formal shoes
These are the same seamless Oxfords, soft and comfortable, every man's dream! They are sewn from a single piece of leather. And there can be no question of any seam on the backdrop or any other place. True, this fact significantly complicates the production process of this type of shoes, and, accordingly, its cost. But the price does not scare away the most loyal fans of stylish and high-quality shoes. Seamless oxfords are appropriate for a formal setting.
Wholecut
Wholecut is incredibly elegant and great for a formal evening out or less formal setting
These oxfords are made from one piece of leather, but have a seam on the back. Together with the closed lacing system, this gives Wholecut shoes an emphatically sleek, neat look. Today this type of footwear is very popular among men. Its price is usually higher than Plain Oxford or Cap toe oxford . The reason is the complexity of the work and the considerable cost of the used high-quality leather of sufficient size for sewing.
There are models with perforation and various colors, but black, especially lacquered variations, are still most popular. They are a modern alternative to tuxedo evening sets. But brown models are organically combined with casual outfits and all types of suits.
Plain Oxford
Plain Oxford shoes are ideal for formal occasions
These are shoes with a rounded toe. They do not have perforation or decoration, they are characterized by simultaneous laconism and elegance. This is the best option for a formal evening event with a Black Tie or White Tie dress code!
Cap Toe Oxford
Cap Toe Oxford is the most common look for strict business and black tie styles.
It is the most common type of men's oxfords with a cut-off toe. Most often, it is characterized by the classic black color, which is found in most shoe manufacturers. But models of brown, red, wine colors are also available. They are not as popular as black oxfords, but they still have their ardent fans. Cap Toe Oxford are trendy in combination with a classic business suit, as well as black tie outfits.
Wingtip Oxford
Wingtip Oxford, or brogues are suitable for an informal and casual wardrobe
From a technical point of view, these are the most common brogues. A distinctive feature of the Wingtip Oxford is the patterned shape of the toe. It resembles the letter 'M' or 'W', depending on which side you look at the shoes from. This type of footwear is actively used in casual looks. Black models are organic in lax office sets, but brown ones go well with tweed suits and jeans.
Saddle oxford
Saddle Oxfords feature a distinctive fit, featuring a contrasting leather insert, reminiscent of a horse saddle
If we translate this name literally, we get 'Oxford Saddle'. The fact is that this type of shoe is characterized by a cut detail that is sewn from the sole on one side of the shoes, passes through the lacing and ends at the sole on the other side. Visually, this contrasting leather insert resembles a saddle on the back of a horse. Hence the name. But everything falls into place when you learn that Saddle Oxford is historically American. And therefore, their name is quite in the spirit of the Wild West.
These shoes are perfect for attending outdoor sports events and outdoor sets. It goes well with jeans, colored chinos or loose-fitting corduroy trousers.
Kiltie oxford
Kiltie Oxford is a rare type of Oxford shoe featuring a dramatic fringe on the tongue
A distinctive feature of this type of oxford is the fringe on the tongue. These shoes are extremely rare and relevant only in an informal setting or on vacation.
Where are men's oxfords appropriate?
Oxford Shoes are considered the most conservative and austere of shoe styles. It is for this reason that they are the 'kings' of the formal setting. Black and brown colors have become traditional for such shoes.
The presence of the first is mandatory at official events and in a business wardrobe. Severe models are organic with tailcoats or tuxedos, as well as a classic suit. But there is one condition that must be met in this case: men's oxfords should not have perforations and any decor.
Brown shoes are more appropriate in Business casual, casual looks. They can be worn in combination with a classic suit of colors other than black, as well as various casual items. The priority is either gray or blue, as well as bright colors of clothes, including solutions with prints.
Two-tone oxfords (Spectator shoes) can be a catchy accent in a street set
There are also two-color models. They are especially relevant in opera and theater (white-black solutions), as well as street-sets (other color combinations). What to prefer and what to combine with is a matter of taste for a particular man. You can use not only models combining white with black or brown colors, but also more catchy, shocking combinations. For example, red and blue. Some designers do not deny themselves the pleasure of complementing such shoes with catchy decor in the form of rhinestones, spikes and other details.
Colorful Oxford shoes are more often chosen by creative personalities or men with a subtle sense of style for their outfits. Since such shoes are not always appropriate and require certain skills to create a truly harmonious image. Most often, such shoes are found at creative, fashion or creative parties, friendly and other informal parties, in the street images of famous bloggers.
Finally
Today men's oxfords are sewn not only from smooth leather, as before. Also, lacquered models, suede or from various combinations of materials, including textiles, are in use. Oxford shoes are easy to buy and are made by many brands. Вот лишь некоторые из них: Stefano Bemer, Aubercy, Maftei, Gaziano&Girling. There are a great many manufacturers, which allows you to try different options and choose the one that is ideal for the character, preferences, individual style of clothing of a particular man. Do you already own Oxfords or are you just thinking of buying them? What kind of Oxford Shoes do you personally like and why? Write in the comments and good luck!
