With the onset of autumn, the streets of the city become rainy and cool. In a warm woolen suit and under an umbrella, you will hardly be able to save your body and not get wet. In such cases, a coat or raincoat will help get rid of dampness and coolness. How to choose a coat and how they differ is the topic of this article.
Over the years, a wide variety of types of coats, raincoats, jackets or overcoats have appeared. They all vary in weight, style, and heritage, so to speak. There are no more than 6 classic coat varieties, which have stood the test of time and in some countries can even pass from father to son.
For a simplified understanding, let's explain the following points:
A coat is a type of winter or demi-season outerwear with long sleeves. They vary in length, from short ones that end at the thighs, to long ones that end below the knees.
A raincoat is a type of demi-season outerwear, much thinner and lighter than a coat.
The overcoat is a heavy and bulky coat rooted in military history.
How to choose a coat for a man
A good coat should be warm, it should suit your type and you should look good in it. Every self-respecting man should know how to choose a coat. To do this, you need to know what the coat is made of, what size it should be and how it should fit.
Materials
If you plan on wearing a coat for years to come, make sure you buy a 100% wool coat. Accordingly, the cost of such a product will not be the most budgetary, I hope you understand this. For the average man, such a coat should weigh about 2 pounds. Synthetic materials wear out quickly and do not provide adequate comfort to the wearer.
The coat made from cashmere is also very good. It is soft, warm, but the cuffs and collar of such a coat are subject to rapid wear and tear, and the price of a cashmere coat will be at least 2 times higher than a woolen one. If you compare a coat made of cashmere and 100% wool to warmth, then I think you will not notice much difference. Only cashmere is softer in tactile sensations. A wool blend with cashmere is an excellent compromise.
Sleeves
Coat sleeves should be long and cover the jacket sleeves and shirt cuffs. Thus, you will not chill your hands and, wearing gloves, your wrists will not be exposed.
Coat length
As a rule, the coat should be long and reach the level of the ankles. As a rule, such long coats are worn by stately gentlemen who are over 50 years old. Most young men prefer knee-length coats. I think young people choose raincoats that are shorter because of the ease of movement, and their legs are slimmer than those of established men =)
By the way, in a short coat it is more convenient to get in and out of the car, not being afraid to stain your favorite coat on the dirty doorsteps. In Europe and America it is not so dirty, but here it is so dirty that you have to look for a place in the winter where you get out of the car and not get into a chemical slurry that vaguely resembles snow with tar in its composition.
At the same time, a long coat retains heat better and protects from strong winds from your neck to your ankles. Choosing a long coat remains a matter of taste and compromise.
How a man's coat should fit
When you go shopping for a coat, make sure you don't forget to put on your shirt, jacket or suit. Better yet, grab a thick knit blazer or cardigan. All this is necessary in order to choose a coat that will be good, and most importantly, it is comfortable to sit on you when you are in a suit.
Some people like it when the coat fits loosely and does not hinder movement. Others, on the contrary, prefer a tight-fitting coat with a tight belt. This is all a matter of taste, but keep in mind that the coat should fit well in the shoulders and not hang down at the sides. In addition, if extra folds of fabric appear where they should not be, or the coat is so wide that you look like a bell, then this is obviously not your model. Look for another manufacturer or style.
Style and cut
As for the style and cut of the coat, this is again a matter of taste. A single-breasted coat (this is when there is only one row of buttons) is a more informal and versatile style. A double-breasted coat (two rows of buttons) looks more formal and also a bit warmer as you have 2 layers of wool on your chest instead of 1.
Cut quality
High quality coats are sewn from a single piece of fabric, without any cuts or separate pieces of fabric. Such a coat is durable and looks more solid. If you have no problems with finances, choose a coat made of solid linen.
A less expensive coat, sewn from small pieces of fabric. Seams can usually be seen on the back and / or waist.
Types of men's coat
So, we figured out the main details of the classic idea of a men's coat. For a more detailed study of one of the main elements of a business man's outerwear, I propose to disassemble 6 classic coats: Chesterfield, Covert, Burberry or Trench, classic coat, Ulster and Polo.
These varieties of men's coats have not radically changed for many decades, nevertheless, they remain relevant to this day.
Chesterfield coat
Let's start with a coat called Chesterfield. The coat was named after the Earl of Chesterfield and was invented in the middle of the 19th century. This was the first coat of its kind. Since then, the Chesterfield coat has practically not changed and has retained the following features:
- Single-breasted coat.
- There are no seams or arrows at the waist.
- Short and pointed lapels.
- Velvet collar (on some models).
- The pockets are straight and sewn on top, similar to the side pockets of a jacket.
- No cuffs.
- There is one slot (cut) on the back.
The classic Chesterfield knee-length coat in gray or dark gray is focused on a business dress code. The best models have a velvet collar.
Covert Coat
The Covert coat is very similar to the Chesterfield coat, but its purpose is slightly different. It was created for outdoor hunting. That is why the material from which the coats are sewn is adapted to different weather conditions: mud, rain, wind and cold. Previously, such a coat weighed quite a lot, but modern technology has significantly reduced the weight of the product. Traditionally, a dark green coat is used so that the dirt is not very noticeable if you get dirty.
Covert coat features:
- Single-breasted coat.
- Notched lapels.
- Made of dark green fabric.
- Knee-length coat that slightly covers the suit jacket.
- Well-stitched cuffs (4 – 5 times along the cuff) and coat hem, sometimes pocket flaps are stitched.
- There is one slot (cut) on the back.
- In addition to two pockets, like a jacket, there are two more pockets on top with a slight slant. In addition, there is a chest pocket.
- The collar is often made of corduroy.
- Extra large and deep inside pocket (can fit a whole newspaper or even iPad).
Multiple stitched sleeve cuffs, distinguish the Covert coat from others. Thick, durable fabric will keep you dry from any wet weather. Everything suggests that the coat will last for 10 years, no less. As for the business dress code, the Covert coat is not the best choice; it is better to look at another model.
Trench Coat or Burberry (Trench Coat)
The trench coat, or also called the Burberry coat, is a classic coat that was invented during the First World War. By the way, the Trench coat, in turn, turned into another product – a raincoat. The coat was designed by Thomas Burberry, founder of Burberry. During the Boer War, the trench coat was intended for British officers. The coat was made of gabardine, an innovative, durable and well-ventilated fabric for those times that repels water and warms in inclement weather. Only officers were allowed to wear coats; they could purchase this piece of clothing on their own salary, since the coat was not part of the soldier's uniform issued. Today, trench coats are worn not only by officers, but also by ordinary citizens.
The modern trench coat is made of wool, cotton and leather. The traditional color is khaki, but today the most common colors are black and blue, even with a print in the form of a check (the traditional Burberry check, for example).
Features of Trench Coat or Burberry:
- Double-breasted coat with 6 buttons.
- There is one slot (cut) on the back.
- Wide sleeve with a strap at the cuffs.
- Epaulettes on the shoulders (a relic from wartime; earlier, military insignia – shoulder straps) were hung.
- A protective flap of fabric on the chest (protects part of the buttoned coat – the top button, which is sewn almost on the shoulder).
- There is a belt.
When planning to purchase a trench coat, keep in mind that it should not fit snugly to the body. It is recommended to come in a suit and try on a coat prior to purchase, tie a belt and button up completely to feel the comfort / inconvenience of a trench coat. It should be free in it, the sleeves of the coat should be 2-4 centimeters longer than the sleeves of the jacket. The length of the coat, as a rule, is 95 – 115 centimeters. Men with tall stature are advised to purchase a long coat. Gentlemen with short stature – shorter coats.
Classic coat (Paletot)
The very name 'Coat' is of French origin, which characterizes a rather short double-breasted or single-breasted coat, with and without pockets. Today, a double-breasted coat is very popular, and is one of the main items of a business man's wardrobe.
Features of classic coat:
- The coat is double-breasted, as a rule, 6 – 8 buttons.
- The upper buttons are located farther from each other than the lower ones, while the extreme upper buttons are not fastened at all.
- Notched lapels.
- In width, a classic coat can be tight to the waist with a belt or straight, without a belt.
The coat is made from various types of fabric. As a rule, black, dark blue or gray coats are popular. Suitable for a business dress code, including a tuxedo.
Ulster coat (Ulster)
The Ulster coat comes from the Irish province of Ulster, where the locals popularized a special tweed coat.
Features of Ulster coat:
- The coat is sewn long and has 6 or 8 buttons.
- The high collar allows you to protect your neck from the wind.
- Top pockets and sleeve cuffs.
- Thick stitching on the edges of the coat.
- Made from heavyweight tweed fabric.
An Ulster coat is a great outerwear piece for cold and inclement weather. Tweed fabric keeps the wind out, keeps you warm and perfectly hides dirt and stains. However, an Ulster coat is not suitable for a business person, as it is very cumbersome, and the color does not correspond to business classics.
Polo Coat
The Polo coat is a classic American coat that, oddly enough, has its origins in the UK. In polo, players wore a golden cape with a belt to keep out the cold. A little later, the belt was replaced with buttons. Players wore coats after the game and in the late 1920s, the Polo coat became one of the most popular outerwear items for men.
Features of Polo Coat:
- The coat is made of golden or yellow-brown camel wool. Sometimes 50/50 with regular coat.
- There is a belt at the waist.
- As a rule 6, sometimes 8 buttons.
- Top pockets.
- The collar or lapels sometimes contain additional overlays.
Obviously, the Polo coat is very similar to the Ulster coat, but differs in the composition of the fabric and the golden color.
So, we have taken apart 6 classic coat options that remain relevant for many decades. A good coat is certainly worth the money, but it is a smart investment, especially when it comes to high comfort, style and even prestige. With proper care, a man's coat will last for more than a dozen years, maybe it will even remain for your children.
In conclusion, we would like to show you several current coat models from the collections of the current season, which you can find in stores:
Coat by Marcello Gotti
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Gap Coat
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Berkytt Coat
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Coat Burton Menswear London
BUY AT PARTNER STORE
Celio Coat
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Selected Homme Coat
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Topman Coat
BUY AT PARTNER STORE
Banana Republic Coat
BUY AT PARTNER STORE
