How to check the composition of cosmetics: analysis and analysis of harmful and useful components

Recently, the issue of the safety of cosmetics has become a concern for many women. Users have already stopped blindly believing what they tell us from the pages of brochures and TV screens in advertising. Buyers want to understand what cosmetics are made of, which ingredients are really useful, which ones are harmful or are completely useless additives. In this article you will find a list of harmful and useful substances in the composition of cosmetics with a description and properties.

How to read the composition of cosmetics – the order of listing the components

The rules of modern trade indicate that the packaging of a product must contain a list of components from which it is made. This list is compiled using the Latin script. Products sold in Russia may also have a list of components in Russian.

According to all the same rules, the ingredients indicated in the composition are arranged in a specific order, and not randomly and not alphabetically. The component that contains the most in the product takes the first position in the list. Next, the second largest component is indicated, then the third, etc. Those ingredients that are listed at the end of the list are contained in the product in a minimum amount. This is a generally accepted rule that is followed by manufacturers all over the world, there may be only minor differences in the order of listing, depending on which country the drug is manufactured in.

However, there is one 'BUT'. In a strict order, depending on the degree of concentration, only those substances are listed with more than 1% in the composition. All others are indicated after the main ones, but in no particular order. That is, if the composition of the product contains any medicinal or simply 'fashionable' component, but it is less than, for example, dyes, the manufacturer has every right to put it in first place, and the dye – in the last. It is also important to take into account such a nuance – if there is a substance in the component composition, the formula of which is a trade secret of the manufacturer, then it may not be indicated at all in the list of components. For example, this often happens with flavorings. More than a thousand aromatic synthetic substances exist and are used. Producers often combine them to create their own compositions. In this case, the composition will not contain the name of specific substances, but it will be written 'perfume'. And the fact that this term hides a dangerous cocktail of toxic, carcinogenic substances that can cause allergic reactions, disturbances in the functioning of the central nervous system and other side effects, the consumer will never know.

Parsing and Analysis of Hazardous Substances – Cheap and Potentially Hazardous Components

Most of the beauty products that you can buy in the store are low to medium cost. This is justified by the fact that the products are designed for a wide audience of consumers and the purchasing power of the bulk of the population is taken into account in the pricing process. In order to keep prices at an acceptable level and to be able to compete with each other, many manufacturers are forced to reduce the cost of producing cosmetic products. What is the easiest way to make a product cheaper? That's right, use inexpensive components in its manufacture. Therefore, most cosmetic preparations contain cheap substances that are potentially dangerous to the human body. They are found in shampoos, washing powders, liquid soaps, toothpaste, deodorants, decorative and care cosmetics. Journalists .ru will help you find out what can be dangerous for certain components of the cosmetics that we use every day.

Cosmetics composition – surfactants

The most famous surfactants are SLS and SLES; they are sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate. In addition to them, about 15 surfactants are used in the cosmetic industry, which are considered potentially hazardous to human health and the environment. These substances are added to cleaning preparations – washing powders, soaps, shampoos, toothpastes, etc. They promote active foaming and act as emulsifiers, grease and dirt solvents.

The only thing that can be said for sure is that surfactants definitely do not bring any health benefits. As for harm, it can manifest itself in this way:

1. Molecules of these substances can penetrate into all internal organs without exception and accumulate there. They are derived, according to some experts, with great difficulty.

2. The substances can cause irritation to the skin, eyes and mucous membranes. Surfactants have a particularly strong effect on the eyes and can cause cataracts.

3. Harmful substances can cause allergic reactions.

4. Surfactants contribute to the destruction of the structure of hair follicles. As a result, the hair begins to fall out, its growth slows down, dryness, fragility of the hair shafts, and dandruff occur.

5. Surfactants pollute the environment. It all starts with water, where they get from the drain of our sinks, bathrooms, showers and washing machines. Surfactants penetrate the water through the soil and can evaporate into the atmosphere, polluting the air we breathe.

6. Most surfactants are so effective at removing grease and dirt that preparations based on them are used to clean engines and wash cars. Therefore, some experts agree that washing hair and skin with similar means is very dangerous. However, it should be borne in mind that in cosmetic products for humans, the concentration of substances is not the same as in products for industrial use.

Composition of cosmetics – refined products

Oils that are produced during the refining process are distinguished by the fact that they are inexpensive and do not oxidize. Therefore, such substances are widely used in cosmetic production, even expensive products are not an exception.

If you use oils made from petroleum, even those that have gone through fifteen levels of purification, this definitely will not bring much benefit to the body, rather the opposite. Therefore, it is important to know which chemicals belong to this group. Such oils can be classified into two categories based on their molecular weight:

Foods that have a high molecular weight. These are such substances:

1. Technical oils. As part of cosmetics, they can be referred to as Mineral oil.

2. Petrolatum. As part of cosmetics, it can be referred to as Petrolatum.

3. Solid oil. As part of cosmetics, it can be referred to as Solyd oil.

4. Ceresin. As part of cosmetics, it can be designated as Ceresin.

5. Paraffin oil. As part of cosmetics, it can be referred to as Parafin oil or Parafinium liquidum.

6. Microcrystalline wax. As part of cosmetics, it can be referred to as Microcrystalline wax.

7. A low molecular weight product, propylene glycol, is labeled as Propylene glycol, PEG, PPG on the packaging.

Those chemicals that have a high molecular weight, due to which they cannot penetrate the skin, act as follows:

1. Cover the skin with a thinnest, but dense film, preventing gas exchange, respiratory and excretory functions. This means that the epidermis cannot fully breathe, which has an extremely negative effect not only on the skin, but also on other tissues.

2. The most dangerous of the listed substances is the familiar petroleum jelly. It contributes to the appearance of 100% impermeability of the skin. This ability is successfully used in the cosmetic industry, in particular in the production of care creams. If you apply Vaseline to your skin, it will prevent moisture from evaporating. Which is marketed as 'moisturizing' the skin. Indeed, at first everything happens exactly like this – the dryness of the epidermis decreases. But gradually there is a side effect. Skin that is unnaturally permanently hydrated no longer self-hydrates. This is facilitated by two factors. First, refined products gradually destroy their own moisture-retaining layer of the skin. This is the so-called 'lipid barrier'. Second, our body simply comes to the conclusion that since the skin is hydrated, the need for its own hydration mechanisms has disappeared, they can simply be turned off. As a result, even when using a care cream (and especially after the period of its application ends or is interrupted), the skin gradually fades, wrinkles, and ages quickly.

3. Substances with low molecular weight are able to penetrate the skin barrier and enter the bloodstream. Normally, these chemicals are still cleared from the body over time. But if blood circulation is impaired in some organs, propylene glycol can accumulate in their tissues. According to some clinical studies, the substance was found in excess in those organs that were affected by malignant neoplasms.

Composition of cosmetics – moisturizers

When we see information on the packaging of cosmetics that it has moisturizing properties, we imagine a source of natural moisture that nourishes tissues and protects them from excessive dryness. It's actually not that simple. Humidifiers are divided into two groups – glycerin and glycols, among which the already familiar propylene glycol. We have already informed you about the harmful effect of the last substance, it remains to figure out why glycerin is so dangerous, which you can buy even in a pharmacy. Consider the features of the action of this substance.

Glycerin itself is not a humectant, but the molecules of this component can collect moisture molecules around them that are in the air. Accordingly, applying the substance to the skin, you can be sure that, together with its molecules, liquid will penetrate into the epidermis and dermis, which means that the moisture of the skin will increase. But there is one 'BUT'. Glycerin collects moisture from the air only in conditions of high humidity, that is, when the degree of humidity of the external environment is at least 65%. If the humidity is below the specified level, the glycerin applied to the skin will penetrate into the deep layers of the dermis and collect water around it, contributing to the appearance of even greater dryness of the tissues. At the same time, the upper layer of the epidermis will appear moisturized as glycerin delivers and retains moisture in the surface layers. It turns out that using cosmetics with glycerin in a dry climate, with low humidity, you do not moisturize the skin, but, on the contrary, contribute to the emergence of a liquid deficit in the deep layers of the dermis – where moisture is especially needed. This is especially true for people who spend a lot of time in rooms where air conditioners are constantly running.

A natural question arises, if you use products with glycerin in conditions of 65% humidity, there will be no harm from this? There will be, however, no benefit. Indeed, in most cases, with high humidity, the skin does not already suffer from excessive dryness, because natural moisturizing mechanisms operate. Moreover, in the issue of moisturizing the skin, how much water a person consumes inside plays an important role. It is pure water without any impurities. Drink 1.5-2.5 liters of water per day, and you will not need any moisturizer, because the skin will receive a sufficient amount of fluid naturally – from the inside.

Composition of cosmetics – chemical preservatives

If preservatives were not used in the cosmetic industry, all preparations with a liquid, gel-like, creamy, mousse consistency would have to be stored in the refrigerator and no longer than 7-10 days. Parabens are chemical preservatives that contribute to the shelf life of care and decorative cosmetics, hygiene products is 6-36 months or more. In addition to parabens, formaldehyde releasers and alcohols are also used as preservatives.

Let's start with parabens, what are the potential harm of these substances:

1. Most parabens are estrogenic. They increase the production of female hormones, which can pose a threat to the health of men, pregnant women, and people with hormonal disorders. If parabens accumulate in the body, this is fraught with the development of oncological pathologies and disorders of the reproductive system.

2. Parabens can enhance the negative effects of ultraviolet radiation. Therefore, their content in skin creams is undesirable.

3. Parabens can have a negative effect even at the genetic level, damaging the DNA structure and contributing to the occurrence of mutations in children of those parents who actively use cosmetics with these substances in the composition.

4. Parabens in cosmetics can cause unwanted skin reactions and a total allergy to cosmetic products.

5. And the last – parabens, like other harmful substances, penetrate into water, earth and air. However, you should not immediately categorically refuse to use cosmetics with these substances in the composition. Not all scientists and researchers are sure that parabens are so dangerous. These substances do show some estrogen-like activity, but it is so weak that it cannot have any significant effect on the body of a healthy adult. Regarding the refutation of the rest of the arguments in the direction of the harm of parabens, the same principle applies. It is believed that in order to feel the negative effects of these components in the composition of cosmetics, you need to use a large number of drugs constantly and immoderately, which a normal person would not do.

However, it will not be superfluous to list the names of paraben chemicals if you are determined to use cosmetics with a safer composition:

1. E218 and E219 (methylparaben, Methylparaben).

2. E214 (ethylparaben, Ethylparaben).

3. E216 (propylparaben, Propylparaben).

4. Isopropyl (Isopropylparaben).

5. Butyl (Butylparaben).

6. Benzyl (Benzylparaben).

7. Glutaraldehyde.

8. Hexamidine-Diisethionate.

9. Phenol.

10. Phenyl Mercuric.

11. Benzetonium Chloride.

In most cases, parabens are labeled as part of cosmetics on packaging using alphanumeric designations. If you see icons in the range from E-200 to E-290, it means that the product contains chemical preservatives that are potentially unsafe for your body.

Also, some especially inventive manufacturers, instead of the names of preservative chemicals, indicate the names of various mixtures, which also contain parabens. Such names do not tell users anything, so even those who are categorically against parabens in cosmetics inadvertently purchase such products. Here are some names for combinations of chemicals that are potentially harmful to the body:

1. Sharomix.

2. Nipagin.

3. Nipazol.

4. Hermanon-K.

In addition to parabens, another type of preservative can also be dangerous – formaldehyde releasers. Formaldehyde itself is very toxic to the human body, and, despite its excellent bactericidal and antifungal properties, it is almost completely banned for use in the cosmetic industry. However, even in this situation, economical manufacturers have found a way out. Instead of formaldehyde, they use formaldehyde releasers. These substances are not as toxic, are cheap and work well in combination with other types of preservatives, for example, parabens.

Formaldehyde releasers are toxic substances in the formula of which formaldehyde molecules are present. They can be released over time, turning into cosmetic preparations. This can be facilitated by various environmental conditions – violation of the order of transportation and storage conditions of cosmetic preparations; violation of the acid-base balance of the drug after opening the package and during operation, etc.

As a result, when studying the composition of cosmetics, pay attention not only to the presence of formaldehyde, formalin, but also such names:

1. Imidazolidinyl Urea.

2. Diazolidinyl Urea.

3. DMDM hydantoin.

4. Dimethylol Dimethol Hydantoin.

5. Sodium hydroximethyl glycinate.

6. 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane.

7. 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol.

8. Methenamine.

9. Quaternium-15.

10. Benzylhemiformal.

Formaldehyde-releasers are very commonly used in shampoos, conditioners, foams and shower gels, creams, face and body lotions. And also for the manufacture of decorative cosmetics. Moreover, if you buy cosmetics made in Sweden and Japan, you do not have to worry about the presence of formaldehyde or its derivatives in its composition. And cosmetics of Russian brands may contain this substance, since this aspect is not regulated by the legislation of our state.

Using cosmetics, and counting on the fact that it will be suitable for a long time, you cannot but understand that it is impossible to do without preservatives at all. However, manufacturers of so-called natural, green, organic cosmetics are trying to look for analogues of harmful preservatives. They often use alcohols instead. But here it was not without some reservations. Firstly, not all such substances are absolutely safe for the human body. Second, the role of alcohols in the cosmetic industry is not limited to preservative functions. In total, there are two groups of alcohols that are used in the cosmetic industry – definitely harmful and potentially harmful.

List of unambiguously harmful alcohols in cosmetics (original names, synonyms, analogs and abbreviations):

1. Alcohol.

2. Ethanol.

3. Ethyl alcohol.

4. SD alcohol.

5. Alcohol denat.

6. SD Alcohol 40.

7. Isopropanol.

8. Isopropyl alcohol.

9. IPA.

10. Methanol.

11. Methyl alcohol.

12. Benzyl alcohol.

13. Phenoxyethanol.

14. Arosol.

15. Dowanol EPH.

16. Phenyl Cellosolve.

17. Phenoxethol.

18. Phenoxetol.

19. Phenonip.

All these substances, except for ethanol, are produced exclusively by synthetic means. Ethanol is also produced synthetically in the overwhelming majority of cases, with rare exceptions when it is obtained during the fermentation of organic matter, for example, products such as wheat or sugar cane.

Functions of alcohols in the cosmetic industry:

1. Preservation, disinfection of the composition of cosmetics, extension of its shelf life is the main task of alcoholic substances.

2. The basis for the production of perfumery preparations and colognes – after spraying the alcohol, carry the odorous components, after which it evaporates, leaving only the perfume composition on the skin.

3. 'Transport' for fast delivery of the rest of the components of the cosmetic product to the intended destination – to specific cells of the skin.

4. Solvent.

5. Thickener.

If you do not take into account all the useful functions of synthetic alcohols, you can refuse cosmetics in which they are contained, and for the following reasons:

1. Synthetic alcohol, in contrast to what is obtained by microbiological means, has pronounced toxic and carcinogenic properties.

2. Alcohols are highly volatile, that is, the ability to instantly evaporate after spraying from a bottle. It is because of this that the use of cosmetics with alcohol in the composition contributes to irritation and drying of the skin.

3. Alcohols applied to the epidermis stimulate nerve receptors. As a result, skin irritation occurs, which causes increased activity of the sebaceous glands.

4. Alcohols contribute to the disruption of the lipid barrier, the natural protective layer of the skin. Therefore, the skin loses its ability to effectively and fully resist negative external influences. That is, it cannot resist when it is attacked by bacteria, microbes, fungi. And even sunlight, which is relatively harmless in a standard situation, begins to harm the epidermis if you use cosmetics in which alcohol occupies a leading position.

5. Cosmetics containing alcohol are often positioned as the optimal solution for oily and problem skin. Actually this is not true. Alcohol really disinfects the sites of inflammation, reducing the activity of the vital activity of pathogenic microorganisms, which are one of the causes of acne. But at the same time, the impact of alcohol has such negative consequences:

6. Irritation, redness of the skin.

7. Increased dryness of the skin, due to which the sebaceous glands begin to produce even more secretion. As a result, the pores are enlarged, clogged, and pathological inflammatory processes occur in them, and then acne and acne form on the face.

In the cosmetic industry, other types of alcohols are also used – fatty ones. They act on the skin in a different way and are considered relatively harmless. On the packaging of cosmetics, they are indicated as follows – the first word in the name is Alcohol, then one of the options can follow:

1. Cetyl.

2. Cetearyl.

3. Stearyl.

4. Behenyl.

5. Arachidyl.

6. Myristyl.

7. Lanolin.

The properties of fatty alcohols cast doubt on their harmlessness to the skin:

1. The vast majority of these substances act in the same way as chemical humectants. That is, they create a dense film on the skin surface that retains moisture. It is fair to say that such a film is not completely impermeable, as is the case with technical oils. Therefore, fatty alcohols are not as harmful as petroleum jelly.

2. In most cases, manufacturers use lanolin alcohol. But such a substance can cause allergic reactions, since it is of animal origin.

3. The safest substance for humans is stearyl alcohol. But cosmetic companies rarely use it, as it costs much more than other analogues.

Composition of cosmetics – silicones

Silicone is used in the manufacture of hair products and sometimes for the production of decorative and care cosmetics.

All silicones can be roughly divided into two groups:

1. Water-soluble – Trideceth-12, Dimethicone Copolyo, Dimethicone copolyol, Lauryl methicone copolyol, Hydroxypropyl, Polysiloxane. These substances can be washed off with water, which is why they are usually used to make shampoos. May accumulate on the hair and scalp.

2. Water insoluble silicone oils – Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone. Cosmetics with such substances in the composition can only be washed off with aggressive cleaning agents that can be harmful to health.

3. Encapsulated – Cetearyl Methicone, Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Stearyl Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane. The substances form a film on the surface of the hair, blocking the pathways for obtaining nutrients.

4. Amino-functional – Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Amino Functional Silicones, Dimethicone Emulsion, Succinoglycan Gum. These are the most persistent silicones that also create a film. It is very difficult to remove it even with aggressive preparations.

Regardless of what type of silicones is used, these are harmful substances, which should be as little as possible in cosmetics.

Composition of cosmetics – alpha and beta hydroxyl acids

Manufacturers often use the following substances in cosmetics:

1. Alpha hydroxyl acids (AHA, fruit acids, AHA's, Alpha Hydroxy Acids). These substances dissolve only with water and are included in cosmetics for sensitive and delicate skin. As a rule, they are present in the composition of surface peels.

2. Beta Hydroxy Acid (BGA, Salicylic Acid, BHA's, Beta Hydroxy Acids). It is a fat-soluble substance that can penetrate into the deep layers of the skin. Most often it is a component of peels and cleansers designed for oily, problem skin.

Whether to use peels or not is a moot point. Many cosmetologists and dermatologists advocate carrying out such procedures once every 10-14 days, as they improve the condition of problem skin, renew the skin, which makes the face look fresher and younger. And the use of hydroxyl acids in peeling preparations is absolutely justified. However, not everyone knows that these substances are included in cosmetics that are intended for daily use. And many doctors will agree that acids in this case can harm the skin:

1. The skin, in particular its upper main layer with keratinized cells, performs a protective function. If this layer is removed daily, the skin seems to be exposed, it becomes defenseless against the negative effects of external factors. It is more susceptible to UV radiation from the sun, dust and heavy metals in air, cold and heat. The skin is more easily attacked by pathogenic microorganisms and is not able to withstand the harmful chemicals of cosmetics.

2. Since skin cells are constantly being removed, the body begins to vigorously produce new ones. These processes consume resources that could be used more rationally. As a result, the aging of the skin can accelerate.

3. Therefore, preparations based on hydroxyl acids are recommended to be used as rarely as possible. There are more than 10 types of such substances. To recognize them in a cosmetic product, just look for the word 'Acid' or 'acid'. But do not confuse them with polyunsaturated acids useful for the human body, which we will talk about a little later.

Composition of cosmetics – other harmful inexpensive substances

In the cosmetic industry, other harmful or potentially dangerous synthetic ingredients are often used:

1. Filters that protect the skin from exposure to ultraviolet radiation. In theory, such substances should serve a useful function. But some of them, for example Benzophenone-1-2-3, Oxybenzon, 3-Benzylidencamphor, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, can cause allergies. Also, most UV filters have properties similar to those of hormones. The use of cosmetics with such components can lead to the occurrence of malignant neoplasms.

2. Talc is a seemingly safe substance that is included in many cosmetic preparations with a powdery texture and can clog pores. It also has a dehydrating effect on the epidermis, drawing and absorbing moisture.

3. Fragrances and fragrances. More than a thousand of these synthetic additives are used in the production of cosmetics. And the vast majority of them have an extremely negative effect on the body, as they are considered toxic. They cause poor health, skin reactions, vomiting, dizziness and high blood pressure. They can also have an effect on the central nervous system. Moreover, in most cases, fragrances are not added to cosmetics so that they smell good. What difference does it make, for example, whether mascara smells good or has no scent? The fact is that these substances are designed to mask, eliminate the unpleasant odor of other chemical components of cosmetics.

4. Dyes – some of them are powerful carcinogens, others – contribute to skin reactions. And at the same time, there are no clear indications as to which dosages of dyes are safe for the production of hygiene products, decorative or care cosmetics.

5. Aluminum – this substance is included in drugs that prevent sweating (which is harmful in itself, since sweating is a natural process that cannot be disturbed). And also in some cosmetics. Aluminum, like parabens, has estrogen-like properties.

6. Pure formaldehyde is a substance that some unscrupulous manufacturers do not hesitate to include even in the composition of daily moisturizers, has undoubted carcinogenic properties. The least harm that formaldehyde can cause is irritation.

7. Phthalates are substances that help cosmetics retain their original color and smell for a long time. They are also capable of causing serious hormonal disorders, for example, a failure of male sexual function.

Analysis and analysis of hazardous substances – fashionable and expensive components

Fashionable, elite, exclusive components are not cheap, are positioned as the results of advanced developments, are part of expensive care and decorative cosmetics. Such drugs, according to the assurances of manufacturers, quickly and effectively improve the appearance without any effort on the part of the consumer. Agree, this is a tempting offer. And many women are ready to pay a lot of money for youth and beauty. And everything would be fine, but expectations are far from always met and correspond to the real result. In some cases, fancy ingredients are just a marketing ploy because they are useless. In other cases, cosmetics really help to achieve an excellent result, but as soon as a person stops using the drug, there is a rapid change in appearance, a return to initial indicators, or even significant deterioration. There are also fashionable and expensive substances that can cause significant harm to health, although this ability is not advertised by the manufacturer.

Harmful substances in the composition of products – cellular cosmetics and placenta extract

Cellular cosmetics, which are so popular in recent years, are drugs that are an intermediate link between cosmetics and medicines. Therefore, it is not at all surprising that their use is fraught with the occurrence of side effects, which often happens when taking medications.

The most popular substance used in cellular cosmetics is placenta extract. There are many opinions about the appropriateness and ethics of using this product. And even among doctors, dermatologists, beauticians, there are proponents. Our experts simply pointed out the possible risks of using the placenta, the final decision always remains with the consumer.

First you need to understand what the placenta is. This is an organ that arises in the body of a woman (or mammal) during pregnancy (bearing offspring). The organ is a 'home' and a kind of protective barrier for a child growing in the uterus. This barrier absorbs all substances harmful to the embryo that can come from the mother's body, toxins, for example. Also, through this organ, the waste of the child's life is excreted. During pregnancy, the placenta, like a sponge, absorbs everything bad, after giving birth, the body of a young mother gets rid of the placenta that has fulfilled its function. After that, the placenta extract, which contains everything that it has absorbed in 9 months, is used as a component for making a face cream.

The reason that the placenta began to be used in the manufacture of cosmetics was the presence in it of hormones and some other substances that can rejuvenate the skin. However, over time, both consumers and scientists became convinced that hormones have a negative effect on the body, so they began to be removed at a certain stage in the production of cosmetic preparations. However, how carefully such procedures are carried out, it is impossible to know if you do not check the tool in the laboratory.

In the cosmetic industry, both the human placenta and that obtained from animals are used. And if hormones are not completely removed from the material, which is very likely, cosmetics pose a health hazard. It is dangerous to use it, even if you get a great anti-aging effect quickly.

In addition to the possible presence of hormones in cosmetics, the placenta is also dangerous because it can cause infection with various diseases, for example, hepatitis or the human immunodeficiency virus. If you don't want to take risks, buy cosmetic products made in Europe. After all, there is a ban on the use of human biomaterial at the legislative level. The products of Russian companies are more dangerous, since there is no such official ban in our country yet. Companies receive raw materials from maternity hospitals, materials from only surveyed women are used. But how carefully such surveys are carried out is also questionable.

However, even if you use European cosmetics, there is a risk of infection. After all, there are diseases that are transmitted to people from animals.

Suppose that hormones from the placenta are removed qualitatively, the check for the absence of viruses and other pathogenic organisms is carried out fully, why not use the placenta, because its effectiveness has been proven? Consider the main arguments put forward in defense:

1. The placenta contains special substances – growth factors. They contribute to the fact that certain types of cells begin to divide more actively. However, growth factors can have a negative impact on the defense mechanisms that prevent cell degeneration. As a result, new cells may no longer be benign, but malignant.

2. The afterbirth contains a large amount of nutrients that are simply beneficial to the skin. This is really so, the biological material contains elastic proteins (collagen), moisturizing substances (hyaluronic acid, HA), as well as vitamins, micro- and macroelements. But it is worth remembering that the cream with placenta extract will be used topically, that is, it will be applied to the surface of the face. For all these beneficial substances to really be beneficial, they must penetrate the protective barrier, penetrate into the deep layers of the dermis and be absorbed where the processes of cell division take place. But collagen and HA are too large molecules to overcome the protective barrier of the skin. Therefore, they are not absorbed, but clog the pores. The result is a complex effect. On the one hand, the skin cannot perform respiratory and excretory functions. On the other hand, moisture is retained in the skin, a sauna effect occurs. As a result, after applying the cream, a slight swelling appears, the skin tightens, which makes it seem that the wrinkles are slightly smoothed out. Vitamins and minerals can overcome the protective barrier, but if there is a lack of these nutrients in the body, from which the skin suffers, it is better to get them from food. Or take special vitamin and mineral supplements. After all, if there is a deficiency, vitamins and minerals still do not linger in the skin. The body uses them in order to direct them through the bloodstream to where they are needed most – to vital organs.

3. The placenta or extract from it is not the only substance used in cellular cosmetics. Recently, such substances as extracts of fish roe, fish milk, bovine seminal fluid, and cow colostrum have been very popular. Even without taking into account the possible presence of hormones and viruses, problems with growth factors and nutrients remain relevant. Therefore, there are real risks of using such molecular drugs.

Composition of cosmetics – collagen and elastin

Collagen is a substance that is vital for our skin. It is a protein that creates a skeleton of the skin, maintains turgor, elasticity, prevents the formation of wrinkles, creases and sagging. It is known that with aging, the human body begins to synthesize this substance in insufficient quantities. And in order to saturate the skin with collagen (not plant, but animal), creams are used. In the manufacture of such cosmetic products, biological materials of animal origin are used – cattle skins, as well as poultry paws. Which in itself already makes some consumers wonder how much they want to get collagens obtained from such sources. Also, the harm of this substance in cosmetic preparations is justified by two more arguments, the first of which is considered the most significant:

1. We have already indicated that the molecules of this substance are too heavy (i.e. size). They are simply not able to penetrate into the deep layers of the dermis, and have any positive effect. On the contrary, they create a film on the surface of the skin, which clogs the pores. As a result, the epidermis swells and slightly smoothes, and consumers perceive this as a rapid rejuvenation effect.

2. Since collagen is made from animal raw materials, there is a risk of infection with viruses, as well as the occurrence of allergic reactions.

3. Elastin, like collagen, is responsible for the youth and beauty of the skin. As in the case of collagen, elastin synthesis is inhibited by the body after 35-45 years. The harm that this substance, also obtained from biological material of animal origin, causes to the skin, is similar to the harm that consumers receive when using cosmetics with collagen.

Composition of cosmetics – hyaluronic acid, albumin, liposomes

The hyaluronic acid produced by our body is a source of moisture that saturates the superficial and deep layers of the skin. In addition, HA has an additional function – it contributes to the natural synthesis of collagen. In some cases, its production is insufficient, more precisely, the body simply does not produce new HA molecules, using those that already exist to moisturize the skin.

If you carry out a cosmetic procedure for the subcutaneous administration of hyaluronic acid, you can really get a positive effect and count on the fact that significant side reactions will not occur. For injections (fillers), HA is used in a low molecular weight formula. You don't even have to worry about what the substance is extracted from – from plant or animal material, because in any case it will be identical to the human one.

However, in cosmetics, as a rule, HA is used in a high molecular weight formula. And in some cases, it is added to the drug for the sole purpose of indicating on the packaging that the product contains HA and increasing sales. In any case, the user can get one of the results:

1. If the content of hyaluronic acid in cosmetics is low, and its inclusion in the composition is purely a marketing ploy, then there will be no particular harm to health. The user simply overpays for a cosmetic product that does not have any beneficial properties.

2. If the content of HA in cosmetics is really high (which can be easily determined by the place of the substance in the component composition), then the same happens as in the case of petroleum jelly, some 'moisturizing' components, collagen and elastin. The pores are simply clogged, the skin becomes covered with a 'suffocating' film, since too large HA molecules cannot penetrate the protective barrier.

3. There are also two other ingredients in cosmetics that need to be mentioned in a negative way. This albumin and liposomes. The first substance is used in cosmetics, which supposedly contributes to the fact that the skin becomes tighter, and the severity of wrinkles is reduced.

Actually:

1. The substance is extracted from the blood serum of animals, it is potentially dangerous, at least in terms of the possible occurrence of an allergic reaction.

2. Albumin acts specifically on the skin. When the substance dries up, it covers the skin with a thinnest film, tightening it and making wrinkles, creases less noticeable. But as soon as the substance is washed off the skin, the effect disappears. The film, in turn, interferes with natural metabolic processes and prevents the skin from breathing.

3. Liposomes are substances that have recently also gained increased popularity among cosmetics manufacturers and cosmetic buyers. Moisturizing creams with Liposomes, Nanosphenes, Micellization in the composition are positioned as highly effective and radical preparations, the action of which is directed against the aging process of the skin. The argument is the theory that the aging of cells is inextricably linked with the thickening of their membranes, and liposomes can stop this process. Microscopic granules with fat and an extract from the thymus gland are able to penetrate into the deep layers of the skin, act at the cellular level and can reduce the degree of thickening of cell membranes.

But the results of recent clinical studies refute this theory, since it was reliably established that the thickness of the membranes of both old and young cells is the same. It turns out that liposomes in expensive cosmetic creams are just a useless additive that can have a negative effect on the skin. Do not forget that it contains an extract from the thymus gland. And additional hormones obtained from external sources can cause serious hormonal disruption in the body, which can lead to unpredictable results.

Harmful and useful substances in cosmetics – should we believe the research results?

Before adding a particular cosmetic product to the 'black list' only on the basis of the fact that it contains substances that are harmful to the body, you need to understand exactly how a negative reputation is assigned to certain components.

When it comes to substances such as, for example, formaldehyde, then there can be no doubts about their carcinogenicity and health risks. After all, similar properties of this substance have been proven during multiple clinical studies and verified by experience.

If we are talking about substances whose hazard is not 100% proven, doubts may arise. In the overwhelming majority of cases, rumors that a particular component of cosmetics is harmful to the human body and can cause serious consequences arise on the basis of the results of several small studies. When these rumors are tried to confirm or deny at a higher level, larger tests are carried out. And their results can be completely opposite. This was the case, for example, with caffeic acid. Several studies in mice have shown that this substance is a potential cause of cancer. Rodents used caffeic acid for food, although it was not intended for this, and even in large quantities. As a result, the subjects allegedly developed a large number of papillomas. Then another series of studies was carried out, which lasted for three years. During this period, the rodents did not develop any additional neoplasms. However, the reputation for caffeic acid as a carcinogen is already well established.

A similar story happened with parabens. Initially, they were perceived as life-saving substances with preservative properties, as they allowed to stop the use of formaldehyde in the cosmetic industry. After that, based on the results of several studies, parabens were recognized as almost the main cause of cancer in women. Here, a new group of products has emerged very successfully on the cosmetic market – 'paraben free', 'organic cosmetics', 'green cosmetics'. And at the same time, no one thinks about the fact that in most cases substances that can replace chemical preservatives, parabens, can also harm the body. It's just that it's a different type of harm than the one allegedly caused by parabens. Natural preservatives, in particular organic acids and essential oils, are very weak. In order to get the same result that parabens gave, natural preservatives need to be added to cosmetics in much larger quantities. But they are strong allergens. That is, giving preference to organic cosmetics, you must also read the composition and cannot be absolutely sure about the safety of the products. As a result, the results of questionable studies on the safety of parabens were revised in 2010. And independent world organizations, for example, SCCS, FDA, recognized parabens as quite safe substances. Of course, with the proviso that manufacturers should not use some types of substances, while others are required to use in strictly limited quantities. But the noise and scandal around parabens does not subside to this day, as the reputation of these substances has been irreversibly damaged, to the delight of manufacturers of 'organic' cosmetics.

When analyzing the harm or benefit of certain substances in the composition of cosmetics, keep in mind that they are tested, as a rule, on animals, to which chemicals are added to food or injected subcutaneously, intramuscularly. Moreover, the dosages are considerable. But can the results of such studies be trusted? We do not use soap and washing powder or skin cream as food. It is for this reason that the international community treats data obtained in this way with caution.

In addition, when evaluating the composition of cosmetics and the presence of harmful or useful substances in it, it is important to consider another aspect. Research is carried out for individual compounds, but there are other components in the formula of a cosmetic preparation, and hundreds of chemicals are circulating in the human body. They all connect and interact. And the nature of such a connection is not always clear, whether they act synergistically, enhancing each other's action, or they 'extinguish' each other. Therefore, it is quite difficult to say 100% for sure that a particular substance is harmful, useful or useless for the body.

Responsibility of developers and potential harm to cosmetics

Agree, all brands without exception (if they are not one-day firms) strive to win their place in the market, find their customers, constantly improve their product and profit from the sale of cosmetics. Therefore, it makes no sense for them to produce ineffective or dangerous products. In addition, no one wants to sue customers and spend millions on it. Therefore, when developing formulas for cosmetic preparations, a lot of efforts are made in order to take into account the slightest nuances. For example, the concentration of certain substances for different types of cosmetics, the permissibility of combinations of component composition, etc. Take ammonium hydroxide or caustic ammonia, which helps regulate pH – by itself, it is corrosive to the skin and can be considered harmful. But by reacting with acidic ingredients in cosmetics, it is neutralized and converted into a harmless salt.

Another striking example is sodium lauryl (including laureth) sodium sulfate, which is a very aggressive surfactant (surfactant). We described the harm of this ingredient in cosmetics at the very beginning of the article. If this component is included in the composition of cosmetics in combination with betaines, the danger of surfactants is reduced to almost zero, side effects are almost completely eliminated. When compared with surfactants of a milder and safer action, sodium lauryl sulfate and betaines make the formula of the drug more effective and environmentally friendly. And at the same time, the manufacturer can keep the cost of the product at the usual level, and the buyer gets the opportunity to save money on the purchase of cosmetics, without risking harm to health.

From all of the above, we can conclude that the harm and benefits of certain substances in the composition of cosmetics are relative concepts. You need to not only look at the list of components, but also know how they fit, interact and react with each other.

Analysis and analysis of harmful substances – we draw conclusions from the information received

In conclusion, we can say that today in every country, including ours, there are special bodies that check the composition of cosmetics for the content of really harmful substances. For example, certain parabens are strictly forbidden to be used in the manufacture of cosmetics for children under three years old. And this rule is respected by all manufacturing firms without exception. Of course, not all drugs undergo such checks, because there are cheap products that are manufactured illegally, counterfeits, smuggling, etc. But if you are worried about the composition of the cosmetics you use, ask the sellers for quality certificates. If they are, then everything is fine, these products are not harmful to the body.

In addition, the cosmetic industry does not stand still, it develops, keeps pace with the times, takes into account scientific achievements and the results of a huge amount of research, and quickly reacts to the emergence of real risks. If there is a risk, the industry will immediately address the problem. But under pressure from a concerned public and due to the spread of untrue, false information, the fear of hypothetical risk is transformed into panic. Therefore, the choice of cosmetics in terms of composition should be treated responsibly, but calmly and guided by objective assessments and the principles of common sense.

Analysis and analysis of nutrients in products for aging skin

The cosmetic industry would not have received so much profit if the products produced did not have any effect at all, or if in 100% of cases the result was short-term. Experts believe that there are a number of substances that are safe for the human body and that should be included in cosmetics.

Composition of cosmetics – retinoids

If you see names such as retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinaldehyde, retinyl linoleate on the label of a cosmetic product, you can be sure that you are looking at a product that contains retinol derivatives. The properties of these substances are as follows:

1. Protect cells from the negative effects of free radicals.

2. Help cleanse tissues from toxins and decay products.

3. They prevent the processes of photoaging of the skin.

4. Slightly stimulate the synthesis of epidermal cells.

5. They intensify the renewal of fibroblasts.

6. Stimulates the synthesis of connective tissue, collagen and elastin.

Studying the composition and noting that retinol derivatives are at the very bottom of the component list, do not be surprised and do not think that the manufacturer skimped on the active ingredients. The fact is that these substances give excellent results even at the lowest concentration. It is enough that the cosmetic product contains only 0.5% -1% retinol derivatives. Since these components are highly effective, the products must be used carefully and in strict accordance with the instructions. Otherwise, unpleasant and dangerous side effects may occur. For example, with the irregular use of drugs with retinol derivatives for a long time, the course of metabolic processes can be disrupted, as a result of which the skin becomes thinner and more vulnerable. Disadvantages of such cosmetics:

It should be used only after consulting a doctor. Application should be coursework, it lasts from 3 months, but no longer than 6. You can take 1 course per year.

Cosmetics increase the susceptibility of the skin to ultraviolet radiation. Therefore, it is not recommended to use any retinoid-based products for women whose epidermis is prone to the appearance of age spots. Even if the drug is applied exclusively at night, it continues to work during the day. Moreover, the cream is not able to protect the skin even with a high UV filter. Therefore, it is advisable to use a cosmetic product with retinoids in the autumn-winter period, when the activity of the sun is reduced.

The use of cosmetics with retinol derivatives can cause an allergic reaction. Therefore, allergy-prone people and women with sensitive skin should test it on a small area before using the cream.

Composition of cosmetics – ascorbic acid

Vitamin C in the composition of cosmetics helps to activate the processes of restoration and regeneration of the skin, normalization of collagen production.

Vitamin C and its stabilized forms can be indicated on the packaging of a cosmetic product as follows:

1. Ascorbic acid.

2. Sodium ascorbyl palmitate.

3. Magnesium ascorbyl palmitate.

4. Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.

5. Potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate.

Vitami C is stabilized by almost all cosmetics manufacturers, since this substance very quickly loses its properties under the influence of environmental factors. Ascorbic acid, like retinol derivatives, increases the susceptibility of the skin to ultraviolet radiation. Therefore, you need to use cosmetics at night. The normal concentration of vitamin C in preparations is from 1 to 5%. The more substance, the more it can irritate the epidermis. Therefore, women with sensitive skin should give preference to drugs in which vitamin C occupies the last place in the component composition.

Composition of cosmetics – peptides

Today peptides are one of the most promising and promising ingredients used in the cosmetic industry.

We have already described previously the negative properties of collagen and elastin, which manufacturers add to cosmetic preparations, promising to restore the elasticity and turgor of the skin. So these substances are proteins, consisting of long amino acid chains, and peptides are short fragments of proteins, which consist of several amino acids. Collagen and elastin are too high in molecular weight to penetrate the protective layer of the epidermis. And peptides, having a much smaller size, easily penetrate into cells and quickly integrate into the processes taking place there.

Useful properties of peptides:

1. They activate cellular processes and improve the interaction of dermis structures.

2. They normalize the balance of the internal environment.

3. They effectively restore the firmness and elasticity of the skin, as they act as a building material in the process of dermis renewal.

4. Increase tissue resistance to negative internal and external influences.

5. For cosmetics with peptides to be effective, it is important to pay attention to the concentration of these substances. It is advisable to buy products containing from 3 to 5% amino acid compounds. For aging skin, which has already been strongly affected by the aging process, preparations with 10% peptides can be used.

How peptides can be indicated in cosmetics (look for names closer to the top of the list or in the middle):

1. Peptide.

2. Names containing the 'peptid' particle.

Composition of cosmetics – tocopherol

Properties of vitamin E and its active form – tocopherol:

1. Cell membrane protection.

2. Renewal of fibroblasts and prolongation of their 'life'.

3. Preservation of the level of collagen production.

4. Stimulation of the own synthesis of hyaluronic acid.

5. Tocopherol does not have a strong anti-aging effect. Its task is to maintain the status quo, that is, to reduce the rate of aging and prevent the consumption of the body's own resources. Vitamin E is known as a natural antioxidant and a substance that helps to prolong youth. To find out if there is tocopherol in the cosmetics you plan to use, look for tocopherol in the ingredients. Its optimal content is 1-4%.

Analysis and analysis of nutrients in products for pigmented skin

Many women sooner or later face such a problem as hyperpigmentation of the skin, the appearance of age spots, which, of course, do not decorate their appearance and are signs of aging. Therefore, it will not be superfluous to find out what substances in the composition of cosmetic preparations can solve this problem without harming the epidermis and dermis.

Composition of cosmetics – arbutin

More recently, the cosmetics industry used hydroquinone, extracted from plants such as bearberry. Now the majority of large manufacturers use its derivative – arbutin. This form of the substance is safer, since, unlike hydroquinone, it is not capable of disrupting the production of melanin, which is why white spots appear on the skin instead of dark spots.

Arbutin is obtained by combining hydroquinone with ascorbic acid, which makes it possible to obtain a safer substance that has a gentle, gentle effect on tissues that does not cause irritation. The principle of action of this remedy is a moderate suppression of enzymes that are responsible for the production of dark pigments that give color to the skin.

In the composition of cosmetics, arbutin is designated as arbutin, the name should be at the very end of the list of components, since its working concentration is less than 1%.

Composition of cosmetics – niacinamide

Niacinamide is more effective than arbutin because it has a complex effect:

1. Suppresses the activity of enzymes that are responsible for the synthesis of pigments.

2. It is a barrier that prevents pigments from entering the upper layers of the skin. That is, it not only eliminates the problem, but also prevents its occurrence.

3. Niacinamide, which is the active form of niacin, is excellent at penetrating the top layer of the skin. Since it is more potent than arbutin, it can cause redness on the surface of the face. But if you use a product in which the concentration of niacinamide is not exceeded (from 2 to 4%), you should not be afraid of such a reaction, it is a variant of the norm. As a rule, redness disappears about 10-15 minutes after using the cosmetic product.

4. Niacinamide in the list of components of cosmetics is designated as vitamin B3 or niacinamide.

The composition of cosmetics – natural oils and extracts, extracts from plants, minerals

The composition of cosmetics includes a large number of vegetable oils, each of which has its own, even unique properties. For example, some substances act on the skin in this way:

1. Tea tree oil, lingonberry seed, raspberry and cranberry oil have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects.

2. Avocado oil intensifies the synthesis of collagen and elastin, contains fat-soluble vitamins A, E and D, fruit extracts, macro- and microelements.

3. Coconut oil is an antibacterial agent.

4. Aloe oil is an excellent anti-inflammatory, wound healing, bactericidal, disinfectant, soothing and emollient.

5. Wheat germ and almond oils will perfectly support the health and function of a mature, dehydrated dermis.

The same applies to extracts, extracts from useful plants – they all act in different ways, and are included in the composition of cosmetics for specific purposes. For example, aloe extract soothes the epidermis and promotes wound healing. And the substances derived from jasmine, roses make the skin softer and velvety. Extract from green tea, cleanses the skin, eliminates toxins, inhibits the aging process.

There are other medicinal plants that are used to obtain oils, extracts and extracts:

1. Mountain Arnica (Arnica).

2. Verbena (Lippia Citriodora).

3. Vetiver (Vetiveria zizanoides).

4. Geranium (Pelargonium Graveolens).

5. Grape seeds oil.

6. Algae (including Spirulina).

7. Juniper (Juniper).

8. Jojoba oil.

9. Calendula (Сalendula).

10. Olive oil.

Natural minerals obtained from rocks very often become components of decorative cosmetics, since they have the following properties:

1. Absorbs excess sebum and sweat, mattifies the skin.

2. Soothes irritated epidermis.

3. Eliminate small foci of inflammation.

4. They normalize the acid-base balance of the skin.

5. Cover the skin surface with real microscopic crystal plates. Thanks to this, the epidermis is protected from the negative effects of external environmental factors. Minerals are an effective physical protection against UV rays.

6. A separate substance that is saturated with minerals and on the basis of which many cosmetics for skin care are created is clay. It has an antiseptic, regenerating, anti-inflammatory effect, normalizes the function of the sebaceous glands, cleanses and tightens pores. Cosmetic clay contains mineral salts and trace elements, phosphate, iron, nitrogen, silver, magnesium, calcium, manganese, phosphorus, zinc, aluminum, copper, cobalt, molybdenum.

7. However, mineral salts are added not only to dry decorative cosmetics, but also to products with a liquid, creamy consistency. The preparations are saturated with these substances by means of thermal water.

Composition of cosmetics – other useful substances

In the composition of cosmetics, other components may be present that are beneficial, heals and rejuvenates the skin:

1. Zinc Highly effective ingredient in ointments and creams for oily, problematic, rash-prone and irritated skin. The main properties are anti-inflammatory, wound healing, regenerating, absorbing, mattifying. An additional property that makes zinc an indispensable component in the care of oily skin is the ability to block an enzyme that stimulates the sebaceous glands. Usually, cosmetics contain from 1 to 5% zinc.

2. Salicylic acid, also known as beta-hydroxy acid, BHA, BCA at an optimal concentration of 0.5 to 2%. We have already mentioned this substance in the section on substances harmful to the skin. And in the same place we mentioned that the moderate use of acid-based products does not harm, but, on the contrary, helps to normalize the function of the skin of the face, prone to high fat content. Salicylic acid penetrates not only into the upper layers, but also deeper, dissolves sebum and dead cells that clog pores. Additional properties – reduces the severity of inflammation and redness; promotes cell renewal (relevant for aging skin with acne); facilitates the penetration of other ingredients of cosmetics into the dermis.

3. Polyunsaturated fatty acids, which are listed as EFA, Essential Fatty Acids. These substances have a complex effect on the skin and hair – rejuvenating, anti-inflammatory, strengthening, moisturizing. Such ingredients are often added to skin care cosmetics designed to take care of problem skin, both dry and oily, prone to irritation and inflammation.

The safest composition of natural cosmetics, on the label of which there are elements of eco-labeling. If the packaging contains signs of voluntary certification systems for goods that contain natural ingredients, it is better to give preference to just such products. It can be this type of marking – BDIH, ICEA, Ecocert, NaTrue, etc. But you should not completely rely on the honesty of manufacturers, when buying 'natural' cosmetics, still carefully study its composition.

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