Eyebrow architecture: what it is and step by step instructions

LIFE HACK

As you know, eyebrows are one of the most important areas of the face. To be convinced of this, you do not need to make much effort; it is enough to imagine a person's face without eyebrow arches. Let's give an example – the beauty of the American actress Charlize Theron is beyond doubt, but for the role in the film 'Monster' her appearance was significantly changed, in particular – her eyebrows were strongly lightened. As a result, the recognized beauty looked repulsive on the screen, as it was intended.

Therefore, women devote so much time to caring for this area of ​​the face, they even use the services of a professional eyebrow master. It was from this expert that the journalists found out what the architecture of the eyebrows is, what is included in this concept, how to correct the arches correctly at home, without resorting to the services of a specialist.

Eyebrow architecture – what is it, the difference from correction

How to grow chic, thick and wide eyebrows with massage

Browbrow architecture – this concept includes several semantic aspects:

  1. Shape, dimensions, contours, color, volume of the edges.

  2. A cosmetic procedure performed by a master or the woman herself, which allows modeling and creating the optimal shape of the eyebrows.

  3. What factors are taken into account in the process of carrying out the architecture of the brow arch:

  4. Natural shape of the eyebrows, given by nature.

  5. The presence of aesthetic defects – scars, bald spots, areas where hairs grow rarely or are absent.

  6. The shape (oval) of the face.

  7. Shape, section and other anatomical features of the eyes.

  8. Hair color on the head.

  9. Client's wishes.

Brow architecture has a lot to do with correction, but the first concept is broader and includes more steps. First, the master analyzes the data of the client's appearance and selects the optimal characteristics of the eyebrow arches, depending on many factors. After that, the brow artist brings the client's arches to the desired state using various tools and techniques, up to tattooing. This is where architecture ends and correction begins. It will be needed when the hairs grow back or the paint applied to the eyebrows is washed off. It turns out that correction is a cosmetic procedure that maintains the result, which is carried out many times, in contrast to the formation of architecture, which is done once, when you first visit the master.

Eyebrow architecture – stages of the procedure

Correction of different types of eyebrows

Let's consider what manipulations are performed by the master browist within the framework of the eyebrow architecture:

  1. Determination of three main points – the beginning, end and bend of each edge.

  2. Selection of the shape and contours of the eyebrows depending on the shape of the face.

  3. Determination of the optimal width of the brow arches, depending on the features of the appearance.

  4. Removal of excess hairs that are knocked out of the total mass and grow outside the previously defined contours.

  5. Correction of the length of the eyebrow hairs (using a trimmer or nail scissors and a 'man's' comb).

  6. Filling the contours with missing hairs (drawing, tattooing, microblading).

  7. Giving the eyebrows the optimal color and visually increasing the volume (staining with chemical or natural dyes, biotattoo, shadows, pencil, eyebrow mascara).

For the first time to build the correct eyebrow architecture, it is recommended to contact the salon. However, if you do not have the opportunity or desire to make an appointment with the master, you can try to carry out the basic manipulations yourself. Of course, you won't do microblading or tattooing at home, but by doing most of the work yourself, you can significantly reduce the cost of browsing services.

Brow architecture – coordinates of three growth points

First you need to determine where the arcs begin and end, where the point of their break is located, because even if you plan to 'wear' practically straight eyebrows, this point should be marked. Therefore, you need to carry out a simple procedure using a mirror, a cosmetic pencil and a long thin object, for example, a knitting needle. The sequence of actions is as follows (first on one edge, then on the second):

  1. Determination of the starting point for the growth of the brow arch – attach the needle to the wing of the nose and direct its other end to the inner corner of the eye. Where the needle crosses the eyebrow is the starting point of growth, the base of the arch.

  2. Determination of the end point of the growth of the eyebrow – everything is the same as in the first paragraph, but the second tip of the needle should pass over the outer corner of the eye.

  3. The point of curvature of the brow is where the tip of the spoke, attached to the wing of the nose and passing over the pupil, points.

  4. Points identified during the experiment should be marked with a cosmetic pencil. Based on them, you can build the correct shape of the brow arches depending on the type of face.

Why is it important to choose the right shape of the eyebrow arches

How to choose the shape of the eyebrows depending on the oval of the face

The selection of the shape of the eyebrow arches is perhaps the most crucial stage in the architecture of the eyebrows. If you make a mistake, the appearance will look, to put it mildly, strange. The face will acquire a gloomy, stern, eternally surprised expression, or facial features will not be in harmony with each other at all. Therefore, experts take into account the natural outlines of the eyebrows and the oval of the client's face:

  1. If you have a round face, the brow line should be elongated and have a significant break.

  2. If you have a square face shape, the eyebrows with a smooth high curve will suit you.

  3. If you are the owner of a triangular face, the eyebrows with a slight bend should be in good harmony with your features.

  4. For women with a rectangular face, smoothly curving eyebrows without high peaks are suitable.

  5. If you have a diamond-shaped face, the eyebrows should be high, as if slightly raised.

Most fortunate are women who have a perfectly oval face. This opens up opportunities for a variety of experiments, since you can shape the contours of the eyebrows to your taste.

Edge architecture with stencils

One of the easiest ways to find the shape of the brow arches that will adorn your face is to use stencils. You can find many options on the Internet, even entire sets. The price range is wide, so women with different financial capabilities can buy stencils.

The main advantage of stencils is that you can apply them to your face one by one and find the optimal shape yourself without contacting an eyebrow architect.

Types of stencils:

Stencils can be plastic or paper. The first option is more durable, the second is usually cheaper.

Single eyebrow overlays and double stencils. The latter option is preferable, since using such a tool, you risk less drawing asymmetric contours. Also on sale there are kits that are available in boxes and consist of:

  1. Eyebrow stencils, which are in a special compartment of the box.

  2. Shadows, which are presented in 3-4 colors.

  3. Eyebrow shading brushes.

  4. Various brush tips.

A separate category is stencils, which are produced in the form of masks. They are flat with slots for the mouth, nose. Such a beauty accessory is intended for the user to understand how the brow arches should relate to other facial features, and to be able to perform the architecture according to all the rules. Also very popular are hard plastic stencils that are securely fixed in the nose bridge area. This makes it possible to easily fill the space inside the contours using any cosmetic product.

How to use stencil for eyebrow architecture:

  1. Find the shape of the stencil that suits you.

  2. Apply the shape to the eyebrow, focusing on the special markings that should be applied above the cut, because it helps to take into account the proportions of the face in the architecture of the brow arches.

  3. Draw a pencil along the contours of the cut, outlining the future shape. If you use shadows, you can immediately paint over the entire surface of the arc that entered the slot of the stencil.

  4. Remove the overlay, using tweezers, gently pluck out the hairs and fluff that are located outside the boundaries of the shape of your choice.

Carry out a similar procedure on the second brow.

Brow architecture – defining the width of the arches

Who do and do not go with wide, thick eyebrows

With the length of the arcs, everything is more or less clear – it is limited to the points whose coordinates were established earlier. If you decide to skip this point, then keep in mind that the eyebrows should not go beyond the eye socket. Feel the bones of the skull in the eye area with your fingertips on the face, and you can determine if the length of the eyebrows is normal.

The width of the brow arches, which is normally 0.3-0.7 cm, is determined taking into account two factors:

  1. Genetically inherent predisposition, natural facial features. See how wide your eyebrows were initially – this factor is what you need to focus on.

  2. Full lips. Experts recommend taking this aspect into account. Girls with thin lips can pluck their eyebrows until they have fine lines. And for those who have full lips, wide, thick eyebrows are more suitable.

  3. The width of the lines cannot be the same at the beginning and at the end, in the middle, since such 'sausages' do not paint the face. The brows look harmonious and natural, the width of which gradually decreases from the base to the ends.

Eyebrow architecture – ways to remove unwanted elements at home

After you have decided on the points of growth, shape and width of the eyebrows, outline the desired contours with a cosmetic pencil. Anything inside the lines is the brow arches that will adorn your face. All elements that are outside the contours are recommended to be removed.

The exception is the hairs that grow at the very top of the brow arches. They are stiffer than those in the middle and bottom. If they are removed by conventional methods, then black 'hemp' may appear in their place, which will contribute to the appearance of the effect of negligence and inaccuracy. Better to leave them alone and not touch or use a laser hair removal service.

How to remove excess hairs that grow beyond the contours of the eyebrows on their own? The easiest and most effective way to tidy up your eyebrows is to use tweezers. It is inexpensive, easy to use, familiar to most women from their youth. Recently, modified tools have appeared – they resemble scissors in shape, since they have rings for gripping with fingers, and at the ends, instead of blades, there are flattened, flat surfaces with which you can pick up hairs. The only drawback of plucking eyebrows with tweezers is the pain that occurs when removing each hair. Side effects that may occur during and after the procedure are the capture of not only hairs, but the delicate skin of the eyelids, redness and irritation of the epidermis.

In addition to tweezers, there are and are widely used in beauty salons, at home, such methods of removing excess hairs in the brow arches:

  1. Cotton, silk or special cosmetic thread. It is twisted in such a way that when it is passed over the skin, it grabs the hairs at the very base and pulls them out like a modernized tweezer. The technique is not new; it has been successfully used by women in eastern countries for centuries. Recently, it has gained popularity in the domestic market of cosmetic procedures, receiving the name 'trading'. In the salon, the removal of excess hairs is performed by a master both manually and using a special apparatus. At home, you can use only the manual method, having previously trained on the hairs of a leg or arm. The advantage of this method is that, having acquired a certain skill, you can remove excess hairs faster than using tweezers. There are more disadvantages: pulling out hairs is just as painful; it is almost impossible to achieve a clear shape of the arcs; there is a high probability of not pulling out the hairs, but breaking them off at the very root. If you nevertheless decide to use this particular method, preliminary steaming of the skin and treatment of the eyebrow area with degreasing preparations will help to obtain the desired result.

  2. Sugar paste used in the sugaring technique. If you find a good recipe for making a paste, then it will not be difficult to carry out the architecture of the eyebrows even at home, despite the fact that the procedure is recommended to be performed in a beauty salon. Before carrying out cosmetic manipulations, the skin must be steamed and disinfected. Places where hair removal is undesirable are treated with cream. After that, you can apply sugar paste and remove it as indicated in the recipe – tear it off by rolling a plastic layer or using a special fabric lining. The main thing is to monitor the temperature of the paste so as not to burn the delicate skin around the eyes.

  3. Cosmetic wax, including special wax strips of the type used to depilate hair on the arms, legs and armpits. In this case, the procedure is similar to that used in the shugaring method.

  4. The most effective method for removing excess hairs when building an eyebrow architecture is using laser technology. This can only be done in the salon and only if you are really happy with the shape of the brow arches that the browbist gave them. The use of a laser will allow you to quickly and effectively remove hairs, prevent their growth for at least 2-3 weeks. And if you carry out this procedure 3-4 times in a row, you can count on the fact that the shape of the eyebrows will remain unchanged for several years or even the entire subsequent life without the need for correction.

Eyebrow architecture – the stage of hair length correction

Eyebrow hair length correction

Even if you give the eyebrows the perfect shape, individual hairs can curl, knock out of the outlined contours, simply because they are too long. Of course, they can be laid in the direction of growth and fixed with gel or ink. But in some women, especially with an oriental type of appearance, the hairs are so thick, stiff and naughty that no fixing drugs can cope with them. In this case, only a 'haircut' will help. Two methods will help to carry out the architecture of the eyebrows and shorten the hairs at home:

  1. Using a special trimmer. This is a small device powered by finger batteries, shaped like a ballpoint pen or felt-tip pen. At one end, there is a row of serrated blades that can cut hairs to the desired length or even to the very root, like a men's electric razor. In order not to accidentally shorten the hairs too much, you can use a special stop-attachment that prevents the blades from touching the hair shafts very close to the level of the skin. As a rule, two or three attachments are included in a set with a trimmer, which allow you to adjust different hair lengths.

  2. If you don't have a trimmer on hand, you can use regular hairdressing or nail scissors and a flat comb. The tool must be well sharpened, otherwise it will only break tough but flexible hairs, not trim them. Also, you must be sure that your hand does not flinch during the procedure, which can result in a large amount of hair being cut off, spoiling the appearance for at least a month. To be more confident in your actions, you can rest your elbow on a hard and flat table surface. Then you need to comb all the hairs of the eyebrow down with a comb. Those that are so long that they protrude beyond the contours need to be trimmed. Then the hair must be combed in the opposite direction – up. The ends of the hair that extend beyond the brows are also shortened.

This procedure may seem unpleasant and time-consuming to you, but it will not be necessary to carry out it often. Eyebrow hair does not grow very quickly, so they need a 'haircut' once every two or three weeks.

Eyebrow architecture – drawing missing elements

If there are places in the eyebrow area where hairs are supposed to be, but in fact they are absent, they can be completed. To do this, you need a brow pencil that matches the color of the hairs. Consider the simplest drawing technique that you can use yourself at home:

  1. Comb the hairs – those that grow at the beginning of the arc, need to be directed upward, those in the middle and end – fit in the direction of their growth.

  2. With a pencil lead, the upper and lower contour of the eyebrow is slightly emphasized up to the very tip. We begin to draw the lines not from the base of the arc, but stepping back 3-5 millimeters.

  3. Inside the contour, we determine the areas where there are no hairs, and draw them with a pencil, trying to simulate as accurately as possible the natural elements, their length, thickness, location.

  4. Fill with strokes and areas where the hairs grow fully. This is so that there is not much difference between the shaded and unshaded areas.

  5. If the lines are too clear and look unnatural, you can blend them with the eyebrow brush. For the same purpose, you can use a cotton swab.

  6. Perform the procedure on the second arch even if there are no bald spots on it. You need to try to make both eyebrows as symmetrical as possible, the same, as in a mirror image, so as not to lose the naturalness of the image.

  7. To consolidate the result and in order not to accidentally smear the paint by touching the face, fixing gel or special wax can be applied to the eyebrows.

  8. Instead of a pencil, you can use a liner or a special felt-tip pen, but in this case the result may not look natural enough. And the most long-term effect can be obtained if you finish painting the missing hairs in a beauty salon using the method of tattooing or microblading.

Brow architecture – color correction techniques

Eyebrow shaping by different methods

If your eyebrows are too faded and dull, it's not difficult to improve their color. And even if you dyed the hair on your head, as a result of which the color of the eyebrows is no longer in harmony with them, you can easily correct the situation. To do this, you can apply the following drugs and methods:

  1. Eyebrow shadows. This tool will make the color more saturated and pronounced, but the effect does not last long – 3-4 hours.

  2. Mascara, eyebrow gel. This tool will not only help to correct the shade of the hairs, but also lay them in the right direction and fix them. Therefore, mascara is often used by women with thick, hard and unruly hairs of the eyebrow arches.

  3. Henna and basma, their combinations. Such a preparation paints over both the skin and hairs, allowing you to get a lasting result that will delight you for 2-3 weeks. You can find henna on sale in several colors, so this remedy is suitable for both fair-haired and dark-haired women. The advantage of henna is that you don't have to re-dye your eyebrows every day when doing makeup. And also the fact that this natural remedy has a positive effect on the skin and hair, follicles, revitalizing the eyebrows, stimulating their growth.

  4. Chemical eyebrow dye. The advantages of this tool are that it allows you to get the most lasting result. The hairs will change color in 4-5 weeks. And also the fact that the paint has a large assortment of shades, so girls with any type of appearance can use it.

The use of cosmetic preparations for correcting the color of the eyebrows allows you to get an additional result – to make the eyebrows visually voluminous, making the look more expressive and attractive.

Benefits of eyebrow architecture as a cosmetic procedure

Most girls and women adjust their eyebrows, and it is not in vain to spend a lot of time on it. After all, the correct architecture of the eyebrows allows you to get many benefits:

  1. Maximum expressiveness and sexuality of the look.

  2. The ability to do absolutely any eye makeup, accentuating this area of ​​the face.

  3. Visually, the eyes look wider.

  4. The face takes on a well-groomed appearance.

  5. Facial expression is not distorted.

How to find the perfect eyebrow look

In general, the correct architecture of eyebrows is a guarantee that a woman will look several years younger. If the eyebrows are not corrected or given a shape that does not match at all and does not harmonize with other facial features, such negative consequences may occur:

  1. The woman looks careless and unkempt.

  2. The woman looks older than she really is.

  3. The facial expression is distorted, the look becomes sad, extinct, aggressive.

  4. It is impossible to do eye makeup, as it draws additional attention of others to unkempt eyebrows.

Major mistakes in eyebrow architecture

Girls who are engaged in the architecture of the brow arches on their own can make mistakes, as a result of which the result is not quite the same as we would like. Our consultants told you what to avoid when choosing the shape, size and color of the eyebrows:

  1. Always work with what nature has awarded you, start from the existing shape and do not pluck the hairs completely, intending to draw new contours and paint over them.

  2. If you see that the shape you have chosen does not fit your face and does not match the rest of your appearance, you should not use it. Even if you really like how a similar shape of arcs looks on the face of another person.

  3. When doing edge architecture, strive to get the most natural result, as it is now in trend. This means that you do not need to make the eyebrows too wide or too narrow, long and bright.

  4. When correcting the contours and color of the eyebrows, use only specialized tools. You do not need to use contour eyeliner or eyeliner for this purpose, eye shadow. You will not harm the eyebrows, but you will not be able to achieve the desired effect.

  5. Also, experts recommend that you do not engage in eyebrow architecture yourself. It is advisable to at least consult with an eyebrow master so that he can help you determine the shape of the arches that will adorn your very appearance.


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